
Class XAiakdiX 

Book_ >V-^ 

(iopyriglit]^°_i 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



The Art of Lead Burning 



A PRACTICAL TREATISE EXPLAINING THE 

APPARATUS AND PROCESSES. 

52 ILLUSTRATIONS. 



By C. H. FAY 



Reprinted from 
The Metal Worker, Plumber and Steam Fitter. 



Published by 

DAVID WILLIAMS COMPANY, 

G32-238 William St., New York, 

1905. 



UBBARYof OONGRESsf 
Two Copies rfeceiveu 

Capyriifni tmry . 

//SS3 

copy B. 




Copyrighted, 1905. 

By 

David Williams Company. 



^ 



PREFACE. 

The mystery which has always surrounded 
the work of the lead burner, like that of all other 
handicrafts outside of ordinary occupations, dis- 
solves under the light of a full knowledge of 
the causes and effects that have a bearing upon 
it. While different works have treated on lead 
burning, it is the object of this special treatise 
to explain fully in detail every part of the appa- 
ratus and fixtures in common use, as well as their 
application, so that the careful reader may under- 
stand and acquire the art of lead burning by 
observing scrupulously the rules laid down and 
devoting sufficient time to practice to master it. 
This instruction, given by text and illustration, 
is only presented after the dangerous power of 
hydrogen gas when misused is thoroughly im- 
pressed on the reader. It would be well for all 
who hope to become lead burners to devote sev- 
eral evenings, with an interval between, to a 
thorough study of the chapters on hydrogen gas 
and its properties before taking any further 
steps. To those who have not had previous ex- 
perience with chemicals and gases this prelimi- 
nary study is indispensable for their own safety, 



for the successful operation of the apparatus and 
to insure satisfactory work. When fully familiar 
with the properties of hydrogen gas and the 
necessity of being careful when it is used little 
difficulty will be experienced in acquiring a full 
knowledge of the apparatus and fixtures. The 
art of burning the lead can only be acquired by 
practice, and either quickly or slowly, as the oper- 
ator may be quick and skillful in acquiring any 
handicraft. In addition to describing what has 
been common practice for many years, the treat- 
ise contains a description of a new machine and 
burner which has only recently become available 
to lead' burners. It also describes the method of 
lead burning with the use of illuminating g^s and 
a soldering flux. A chapter is devoted to soft sol- 
dering and Britannia metal work, which is 
largely used in the equipment of bars and res- 
taurants, the various joints being more easily 
made with a blow pipe than by any other method. 
As the workman who hopes to profit by reading 
this book can by a little negligence make a great 
deal of trouble for himself and others, caution 
and great care are advised whenever he is at 
work. 



CONTENTS. 
Chapter. Page. 

I. Introduction 9 

II. The Apparatus 15 

III. Hydrogen Gas 18 

IV. The Construction of the Generator 26 

V. Making the Gas to Burn the Generator. ... 39 

VI. Connecting the Apparatus 55 

VII. Charging the Generator 64 

VIII. The Flame and Its Management 73 

IX. The Different Kinds of Seams 80 

X. Pipe Seams. icxD 

XI. Acid Chamber Work 108 

XII. Special Hydrogen Apparatus and Burner. . .119 

XIII. Soft Soldering with the Mouth Blow Pipe. ..127 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTION. 

In compiling a treatise on the subject of lead 
burning too much stress cannot be laid upon the 
fact that the greatest care must be taken to 
observe the smallest details and to follow care- 
fully every suggestion in regard to safety. I am 
aware of the responsibility resting upon me in 
placing this article into hundreds of hands, com- 
paratively ignorant of the danger involved in 
handling so much hydrogen, without thoroughly 
instructing them in detail as to its use. I may 
be excused, therefore, if, for that reason, some 
of the explanations are so simple as to seem 
ridiculous ; but my aim is to present to the trade 
a treatise that can be relied upon to be free from 
theory that has not been thoroughly tried and 
tested, so that the beginner can be sure that, if 
he follows directions as printed, nothing but sat- 
isfaction to him can result. 

Study the Chapter on Hydrogen Gas. 

I cannot too strongly recommend that the 
beginner study the chapter on hydrogen gas 
until the main points are memorized and clearly 



lO THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

understood. The experiments should be per- 
formed and the result carefully noted for future 
reference before attempting to use the generator. 
It is time well spent to master the technical parts 
thoroughh^ before attempting the mechanical 
part. Then when a man takes up the mechan- 
ical he will do so with an intelligent understand- 
ing of what he is doing, and any little trouble 
which may then arise can be quickly overcome. 

Another thing to be observed is to avoid nerv- 
ousness. A nervous person cannot do this work 
with any degree of satisfaction, as it requires a 
cool head and a steady hand and a vast amount 
of patience to burn the upright and inverted 
seams. 

Lead Borning Explained. 

Lead burning is the process of fusing two 
pieces of lead together without the use of solder. 
The process consists in melting the edges to- 
gether, a drop at a time, and when done with 
hydrogen gas and the blow pipe is called the 
" autogenous process." Lead can be fused with 
gasoline or illuminating gas by the use of the 
compound blow pipe ; but, as ordinary gases give 
an oxidizing flame and require a flux, it is not 
considered a practical method. 

Lead is used extensively in lining tanks made 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 




12 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

to contain pickle dips, hot cyanide solution, stor- 
age batteries, acid tanks for manufacturing jew- 
elry and water closet tanks, as water in many 
cases contains large quantities of lime and other 
deposits which rapidly destroy the solder used 
on copper linings. Tanks used for the above pur- 
poses must be lined with lead and the seams 
burned, as acids attack the tin in solders and 
destroy them. The demand for the work is rap- 
idly increasing where it is introduced. I have 
demonstrated to many manufacturers that this is 
the cheapest method known, as it gives a perma- 
nent solution of the problem how to keep a chem- 
ical tank tight. 

Method of Making Lead Lined Tanks. 

The most common method resorted to in 
many large factories is to make the tanks out of 
very heavy cypress lumber, free from any knots 
or blemishes. The joints are carefully dovetailed 
and fitted together, and long bolts are used to 
draw the joints and keep them from leaking. 
Usually it takes from three to four days to com- 
plete one small tank, only to have it leak in a few 
months ; whereas the same tank can be built in a 
few hours of any cheap lumber, and then, when 
it is lined with lead of a proper thickness and the 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 1 3 

seams burned it will usually last for an indefinite 
period, thereby saving floors and, many times, 
costly plating solutions. 

The most common argument put forth by 
manufacturers is that the bottoms of lead lined 
tanks are soon cut out, owing to dropping sharp 
pieces of metal into them. This difficulty can be 
best overcome by placing a slatted bottom of 
wood in the tank, holding the same in place with 
strips of sheet lead, one end of which has been 
previously burned to the bottom of the tank. 
These strips are to be brought up through the 
slats and then bent over the top of them. This 
will keep the wood from floating, and is the only 
practical way to do it, as the false bottoms soon 
decay, and can be easily removed and replaced 
by simply bending back the strips of lead. 

General Remarks. 

Soft solder, as referred to here, means sol- 
der that melts at a temperature of 300 degrees 
or less, and is so called because of the low heat 
required to fuse the solder. It is used almost 
exclusively on the quick melting metals and com- 
positions, such as block tin pipes and Britannia 
metal. It is also used by pattern makers in sol- 
dering white metal, as it requires but very little 



14 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

heat to sweat it through heavy articles. It should 
not be used to join any pipes which convey hot 
water or other hot liquids, as it is readily acted 
upon and destroyed. (The composition of these 
solders is explained in a special chapter.) 

The chapters on blow pipe work, also on bar 
work, will alone turn many dollars into the pock- 
ets of the plumbers who have courage and ambi- 
tion to acquire this line of work. Many times 
small leaks occur in difficult places that can be 
readily repaired by the use of the blow pipe and 
a common candle. 

The lining of bars with Britannia metal is 
coming more and more into general practice, and 
it usually requires a specialist in this line to do 
the work. The soldering of this metal with a 
blow pipe and an alcohol torch is an easy matter, 
and is described in a special chapter. 

There is no reason why this work should not 
be done by a plumber, particularly in small cities 
and towns, and to aid such as have not had the 
opportunity to familiarize themselves with such 
work I append such diagrams as may seem use- 
ful and necessary. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 1 5 

CHAPTER 11. 

THE APPARATUS. 

The apparatus used for lead burning is illus- 
trated in Fig. I. It consists of a gas generator, 
A; an air holder, B, and pump, C; mixing fork, e, 
and necessary cocks, / and g; combined scrub- 
bing cup and fire trap, h; blow pipe and tips, i. 

The generator consists of an acid chamber, ;, 
and a gas chamber, k. These are connected with 
an acid supply pipe, I, which conducts the acid 
from the acid chamber to the gas chamber, and 
also serves as a balance pipe. 

This feature makes the generator automatic 
in its action, for as soon as the gas in the gas 
chamber gets up sufficient pressure, the acid in 
the gas chamber k is driven slowly back through 
the acid supply pipe / and up into the acid cham- 
ber j, where it is held until gas is used. When 
the acid descends and submerges the zinc more 
gas is generated, replacing that which has been 
used. This form of generator will never blow 
acid like the floating generator. 

The requirements of a hydrogen generator 
for lead burning are that it should be safe, eco- 



l6 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

nomical and automatic in its action. It must be 
so constructed that it will generate gas enough 
to keep the supply constant, and deliver it at suffi- 
cient pressure to keep the flame steady. It must 
also be provided with a combination fire trap and 
scrubbing cup. This will prevent the explosion 
of the generator by firing the gas in the hose. 
This trap must be partly filled with a solution of 
blue vitriol to act as a precipitation cup. (This 
is treated under the head of " Scrubbing Cup.") 

The chief danger with an apparatus of this 
sort is its liability to accident by the careless use 
of the gas, and, as a mixture of hydrogen and air 
is very explosive, great care must be taken to 
exhaust all the air in the generator and tubes 
before attempting to light the gas at the blow 
pipe. The only way to make sure that the air is 
exhausted is to test the gas, as described under 
the head of " The Flame and Its Management." 

A Few Cautions. 

It is a very sensible idea to keep spectators 
away from the generator, as they are very apt 
to strike matches or tread on the tubes, in spite 
of warnings to be cautious, for if there should 
be a leak, even so slight as to be hardly detected, 
it would cause a violent explosion, and as hydro- 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 1 7 

gen is both odorless and colorless, this could 
easily happen without being noticed. This is 
probably the origin of the apparent secrecy with 
which a lead burner usually surrounds himself. 

If an explosion should occur in the tubes and 
they should catch fire, the operator must have 
presence of mind enough to reach the gas cock 
on the generator and close it. If gas explodes 
in the generator, all that can be done is to dodge 
the flying pieces and make a new generator. If 
such an incident should occur and vitriol should 
spatter on the person doing the work, or his as- 
sistant, a solution of bicarbonate of soda or com- 
mon washing soda should be at once applied to 
the wounds. If that cannot be procured, grease 
or oil of some kind should be used without delay, 
rubbing it on the spots where the acid burns, and 
this will neutralize the acid and so prevent it do- 
ing further damage. There should be no trouble 
of this sort in the hands of a careful workman. 
The watchword should be, " Test the gas before 
using." If this is done, explosions will never 
occur. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



CHAPTER III. 

HYDROGEN GAS. 

This element was discovered by Cavendish in 
1766, and was called by him inflammable air. 
The name hydrogen is derived from two Greek 
words, one signifying " water " and the other 
*' to generate," on account of its forming water 
when burnt. It occurs in its free state in the 
bases of volcanoes, and by the aid of the spec- 
troscope has been detected in the sun and stars. 
It chiefly exists in combination with oxygen as 
water, and is an important constituent of all 
vegetable and animal substances. 

Hydrogen is obtained b}^ the decomposition 
of water in various ways. On a large scale, 
nearly pure hydrogen may be prepared by pass- 
ing steam over charcoal, or coke, heated to a dull 
redness. If the temperature be kept sufficiently 
low hydrogen and carbon dioxide will be the sole 
products, and the latter may be removed by caus- 
ing it to traverse a vessel filled with slaked lime, 
but if the temperature be allowed to rise too high, 
or an excess of air be admitted, carbon monoxide 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



19 



is also produced, and cannot be removed from 
the mixture. 

Pure hydrogen is a colorless, odorless, trans- 
parent and tasteless gas, and has never been 
liquefied. It is very slightly soluble in water. It 
is the lightest of all known bodies and is not poi- 
sonous, although it cannot support life, and if 
mixed with a certain proportion of oxygen it can 
be breathed for a considerable length of time 
without inconvenience. It is highly inflammable, 
and burns in the air with an almost colorless, non- 
luminous flame, forming water. A burning taper 
is extinguished when plunged into hydrogen, and 
all bodies which burn in the air are incapable of 
burning in hydrogen. 

Hydrogen does not spontaneously enter into 
reaction with any of the elements, although it has 
a powerful affinity for several of them. Thus, 
when hydrogen and oxygen are mixed nothing 
occurs, but if a lighted splint is introduced a vio- 
lent explosion ensues, water being produced. 
Similarly chlorine and hydrogen are without ac- 
tion upon each other in the dark, but if the mix- 
ture is exposed to a bright light, or if heated by 
the passage of an electric spark, the gases are at 
once combined with explosive violence, forming 
hydrochloric acid. 



20 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

Hydrogen is usually prepared by the action of 
zinc or iron on a solution of hydrochloric or sul- 
phuric acid. All metals which decompose water 
when heated readily furnish hydrogen, on treat- 
ment with hydrochloric or sulphuric acid. Many 
other metals enter more or less readily (although 
none so readily) into reaction with these acids. 
Also, man}^ other acids than sulphuric or hydro- 
chloric acids may be used, but none acts so quick- 
ly. In all cases the action consists of the displace- 
ment of the hydrogen of the acid by the metal em- 
ployed, and if the acid is not one which can enter 
into reaction with the displaced hydrogen, the 
latter is also evolved as gas. 

If pure gas is required it is necessary to em- 
ploy pure zinc or iron, as the impurities in the 
ordinary metal communicate an extremely dis- 
agreeable odor to the gas. 

The pure gas is not absolutely essential for 
lead burning, and owing to their being much 
cheaper, and also on account of their increased 
quickness of action, the commercial qualities of 
sulphuric acid and zinc are employed in the gen- 
erator described. 

The commercial zinc is known as spelter and 
is sold in pigs or blocks, which are easily broken 
into fragments, like stove coal, with a heavy ham- 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 21 

mer. The commercial sulphuric acid is known as 
oil of vitriol and is sold by the pound. The acid 
cannot be employed in its pure state, but must be 
reduced with water in the proportion of one part 
of acid to seven parts of warm water. They must 
be mixed by adding the acid slowly to the water ; 
never the water to the acid. The combination of 
acid and water enters at once into reaction and 
always generates heat, and the result of adding 
water to acid would be small explosions. There 
would be danger of the acid flying on one's 
clothes or into the eyes. The mixture should 
never be stronger than six parts of water to one 
of acid. 

The beginner will observe from the above 
that the generator cannot be crowded by making 
the acid solution strong. Hydrogen is a peculiar 
gas and also a dangerous one for one ignorant 
of its peculiarities to experiment with, and in 
order to thoroughly understand it the following 
experiments should be demonstrated, which can 
be done with little expense. The beginner should 
note the result of each experiment as demon- 
strated, and carefully commit the same to mem- 
ory for future reference. 

Experiment t* 

Test for Hydrogen. — Fill a small jar or wide 
mouthed bottle with hydrogen. This is done by 



22 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



first filling the bottle with water, inserting the 
end of the tube from the hydrogen generator, 
having first exhausted the air in the tube, then 
quickly inverting the bottle and placing the neck, 
Fig. 2, in a pan of water ( A) ; the water will stay 
in the bottle. Now turn on the hydrogen. The 




Fig. 2. — Experiment No. i. 



gas, being lighter than water, will rise to the top 
of the bottle (B), drive out the water, and replace 
it with pure hydrogen, which should be free from 
air. Remove the bottle from the pan of water, 
keeping it inverted. Thrust a lighted splint into 
the bottle. The gas will light and burn at the 
mouth of the bottle. If the splint is thrust far 
into the bottle it will go out. Drops of water col- 
lect in the bottle. Burning is a union with oxy- 
gen; therefore, the burning of the hydrogen 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



23 



shows that it has an affinity for oxygen. The 
sphnt goes out because the hydrogen does not 
support combustion. // no air is allozved to get 
into it the gas cannot burn or explode. 

Experiment 2. 

Proving That Hydrogen is Lighter Than Air. 
— Bring an inverted bottle of hydrogen close to 
an empty bottle, also inverted, Fig. 2. Gradually 




Fig. 3. — Experiment No. 2. 



tip the bottle containing hydrogen (A) until it is 
brought to an upright position beneath the empty 
bottle. Test the bottles for hydrogen. The hy- 
drogen will be found in the bottle (B) that was 
at first empty, proving that hydrogen is lighter 
than air, as it has risen in the empty bottle, dis- 
placing the air that was in it. If the bottle of 



24 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



hydrogen is left in an upright position without 
a cover for a few moments the gas will entirely 
disappear. 

Experiment 3. 

The Effect of Mixing Hydrogen and Air. — 
Half fill a bottle with water and invert it in a pan 
of water, Fig. 3, leaving the upper half filled with 
air. Displace the air in the bottle with hydrogen, 
then thrust a lighted splint into the bottle, and 
the gas will light with an explosion. When the 
bottle was half filled with water the other half 




Fig. 4. — Experiment No. 3. 

was air. The hydrogen took the place of the 
water, so that the bottle contained equal quan- 
tities of hydrogen and air. When the hydro- 
gen was lighted it combined with the oxygen in 
the air. The union of the two gases caused the 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



«5 



explosion, proving that the combined gases are 
very explosive. 

Ezperfmeat 4. 

To Make Hydrogen From Water. — Drop a 
piece of potassium into a little water and cover 
it. The potassium floats on the water and soon 
burns. Potassium acts vigorously on cold water, 
setting free hydrogen, and unites with parts of 
it to form " caustic potash." 



2 6 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

CHAPTER IV. 

THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE GENERATOR. 

The construction of the generator is the first 
step in the mechanical part of the business, and 
to simphfy this a complete set of reference draw- 
ings has been constructed and is herewith given. 
The assembling of the parts should be clear, with 
the assistance of the perspective drawing of the 
completed apparatus, and any mechanic of ordi- 
nary ability should be able to construct this gen- 
erator without any trouble. The following- bill 
of material should first be purchased : 

One ^-inch whitewood board lo inches wide and 8 feet 6 
inches long. 

One 3^-inch whitewood board 12 inches wide and 4 feet 6 
inches long. 

One piece of 6-pound sheet lead 3 feet wide and 6 feet 6 
inches long. 

Three ^-inch female hose end gas cocks. 

One piece of J^-inch brass tubing 2 feet long. 

One foot of ^-inch lead pipe. 

One 4-inch charging screw. 

One 114-inch cleaning screw. 

Making the Charging and Cleaning Screws. 

These goods can be readily purchased from 
dealers, with the exception of the charging and 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



27 



cleaning screws. They can be made in any brass 
foundry. The only difference between the charg- 
ing and cleaning screws is the size. The charg- 
ing screw, Fig. 5, should be at least 4 inches in 




Pi's- 5- — T^^s Charging Screw. 

diameter, or large enough to pass the hand 
through, while the cleaning screw should be i54 
inches in diameter, or large enough to pass over 
a I -inch pipe. A piece of sheet lead is fitted into 
the cover, as shown at a, to protect the metal from 
the acid. Soft putty is used for a packing, as 
shown in Fig. 5. 

The best, although a more expensive, charg- 
ing screw is shown in Fig. 6. As will be seen 
from the cut, it consists of a base, k; cover, d; 
clamp, e, and screw, /. The base is simply a 
plain iron or brass ring, 4 inches in diameter, ^ 
inch thick and i inch high. The bottom is to be 



28 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

faced smooth, while the top is recessed 3-16 inch 
deep to receive the sheet lead and packing of 
putty, as at a. Two nubs, b and b, are cast on 
opposite sides, as shown, to act as grips for the 
clamp c. These nubs are ^ inch long and project 
out from the body of the base ^4 inch, and are 
made sufficiently strong to stand the strain of the 
screw. The cover d is made of the same material 
as the base, the center being raised, as shown, 
to give it strength. Cast directly in the center 
and on the top is the nub e, ^ inch high and ^ 
inch in diameter. This is drilled to receive the 
^-inch screw /. A groove 1-16 inch wide and 
I- 16 inch deep is cut all around the bottom of 
the screw, as shown at i. A hole is then drilled 
through the side of the nub e, and in line with 
the slot i. A pin can then be driven through the 
hole and will pass through the slot i, making a 
swivel joint that will connect the cover and screw 
together. The screw / is made of ^-inch round 
iron sufficiently long to give an action of about 
I inch. The top at n is filed square to receive a 
wheel such as is used on a common gate valve. A 
long thread should then be cut on this screw. 
The clamp c is made a half circle in shape, so as 
to clear the cover with ease. It should be ^ inch 
wide, flat on the under side, while the top side 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



29 



should have a rib cast on it to prevent springing. 
The top at g should be reinforced with metal and 
made heavy enough to stand drilling and tapping 
to receive the screw f. A wood pattern can be 
made for these parts, and they can then be 
molded in any brass or iron foundry. In making 




Fig. 6. — The Best Charging Screw. 



the patterns they should be cut down as much 
as possible, so as to make the finished article as 
light as is consistent with the strength required. 
The same directions will answer for the clean- 
ing screw. The hole to receive the sheet lead 
over the cleaning screw should not be over ij4 
inches in diameter, and the rest of the screw 



30 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

should be made in proportion to this hole. The 
advantage of this screw over others is that it 
does not wrench the sheet lead in making it up, 
and, owing to its construction, it is always sure 
to make a tight joint without straining the gen- 
erator. 

Building the Frame. 

The frame can be made of galvanized iron, 
but wood is much superior, as it retains the heat 
generated in the gas chamber much better. To 
make the frame take the %-inch board and cut 
off two pieces, lo inches square, A and B in Fig. 
8; 5 inches from one side and 2 inches from the 
back of one of these pieces bore a i^-inch hole, 
C, and countersink it. This is for the acid sup- 
ply pipe to pass through. These pieces are in- 
tended for shelves upon which to rest the acid 
and gas chambers. Cut the remaining board into 
two pieces 38 inches long. Lay these two boards 
together. Five inches from the side and 3 inches 
from the bottom bore a i^^-inch hole, d. Then 
saw out a V-shaped piece. Fig. 7. This will form 
the legs of the generator. 

Take a square, and 12 inches from the top 
of these boards draw the lines e and e. Twenty- 
two inches below these lines draw the lines / and 
/. These lines represent the tops of the shelves. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



3T 







/,0T 



3 =3 











32 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

The shelves should be nailed or screwed into 
place. The shelf B should be placed on the top, 
keeping the hole C to the back. Take the ^-inch 
board and cut two pieces to measure 12 x 13 
inches and two pieces 11 x 12 inches. These 
form the sides of the acid and gas chambers. The 
two 12 X 13 inch boards form the sides of the 
acid chamber and the 11 x 12 inch boards the 
sides of the gas chamber. 

Directly in the center and i^ inches from 
the bottom of one of the 11 x 12 inch boards 
bore a i^-inch hole. The remaining piece 
should be sawed out, leaving a hole at g. This 
is so that the board can be removed in case of a 
leak without disturbing the cleaning screw. 
These pieces should be fitted to their places with 
round head screws, and if properly done will 
form an acid chamber which will measure 10 x 
10 X 12 inches, and the gas chamber will meas- 
ure lox lox 10 inches. The acid chamber must 
be larger than the gas chamber, to allow the full 
charge of acid to be used without overflowing. 

Now fit the sheet lead. Six-pound is plenty 
heavy for this generator and will last a lifetime. 
Cut it as shown in Fig. 8, A and B. Form the 
lead so that the seams when finished will come 
on the outside, as in case of a leak in a seam it 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING, 




33 



„0T 



„n 



„r.x 



O ^ ~'s 







c^ 



l>> 



00 

.bo 



34 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

can then be easily repaired by removing one of the 
boards. The projecting edges of lead should be 
dressed over the edges of the top to protect the 
wood from the acid, but do not fasten them, as 
the tanks will have to be removed and the seams 
burned. 

Now cut the piece of lead C to form the top 
of the gas chamber. None is needed for the acid 
chamber, as it must be left open so that no re- 
sistance will be offered to the action of the gas 
on the acid. Five inches from the side and 2 
inches from the back of this piece cut a hole, d, 
Fig. 8, 1% inches in diameter, and dress it up 
with the bending iron to 15^ inches in diameter, 
taking care to preserve the thickness of the metal. 
This is for the acid supply pipe to pass through.^ 

Three inches from the side and 3 inches from 
the front cut a 5^ -inch hole, e. This is the gas 
outlet. Three and one-half inches from the op- 
posite side and 4 inches from the front cut the 
hole /, 2>)4 inches in diameter. Dress this up and 
over the flange of the charging screw a, Fig. 6. 
This may seem a difficult thing to do, but lead 
must be worked slowly. Heating the lead while 
dressing it will help wonderfully. If it is not 
possible to make a good job in this manner, then 
cut the hole 4 inches in diameter and burn in a 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



35 



collar sufficiently big to dress over and cover the 
flange of the screw. This is to prevent acid from 
coming into contact with the screw and destroy- 
ing it. Treat the cleaning screw in the same 
manner. The location of this screw is in the 
center and as close as possible to the bottom of 
the gas chamber, as shown in Fig. 8 at j. 

It is necessary to have a false perforated bot- 
tom in the gas chamber to rest the zinc upon and 




Fig. 8^. — Showing the Perforated Spelter Shelf 
in Place in the Generator. 

also to keep it above the solution. To make and 
support this bottom take a piece of sheet lead 
14 inches square, as shown in Fig. 8, and 
form it in the shape of a pan, which will 
drop easily into the gas chamber k, Fig. 
8^. A piece of i^ or 2 inch lead pipe, 2 
inches long, n, should be burned on the center 



36 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

of the false bottom, to prevent the center from 
sagging with the weight of zinc. Then punch 
the bottom O, Fig. 8, full of ^-inch holes. A 
1 54 -inch hole, y, should also be cut in line with 
the holes for the acid supply pipe. 

Remove the tanks and burn the seams. Place 
the tanks back in place. Then take a piece of 
the ^/^-inch brass pipe, i^^ inches long. Cut a 
thread on one end, tin the other end, and burn 
it to the top of the gas chamber at e; also the 
collar for the charging screw. Then place the 
perforated bottom in the gas chamber, taking 
care to keep the holes for the acid supply pipe 
in line. Do not make any mistake in putting in 
this bottom. Its use is to act as a shelf to hold 
the zinc, and if put in properly it will hold 
the zinc about 2 inches above the real bottom. 
The top of the gas chamber c should then be 
burned in. Now by measuring find the exact 
length of the acid supply pipe. Fig. 7, i. This 
pipe should extend from the bottom of the acid 
chamber to the bottom of the gas chamber p, 
as shown in Fig. 7. From one end of this pipe 
several V-shaped pieces should be cut, p, about 
I inch deep. 

This is one of the most particular parts of 
the apparatus, as this is where the automatic 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 37 

action comes in, and great care must be taken in 
cutting these holes not to have any of them come 
closer to the perforated bottom than i inch. If 
this were not observed the acid would be con- 
stantly in contact with the zinc, and would rap- 
idly get up pressure of gas sufficient to blow acid 
out of the upper tank, and the extra gas would 
escape through the acid supply pipe in blows. In 
fact, it would make the generator useless. This 
is the trouble with the French apparatus. The 
acid, having no place to expand in, is constantly 
coming into contact with the zinc, and unless the 
gas is being used as fast as generated it will 
blow acid out of the acid holder, making a bad 
mess, besides being very wasteful. 

Now flange the other end of this pipe to fit 
the countersunk bottom of the acid chamber. 
Place the pipe in position and burn it to the bot- 
tom of the acid chamber and to the top of the 
gas chamber n, Fig. 7. One of the ^/^-inch gas 
cocks should be screwed on the brass nipple on 
top of the gas chamber. This will complete the 
gas generator. It will make a better job if the 
back of the generator be boarded tight and a 
door made to fit the space between the bottom 
of the acid chamber and the top of the gas cham- 
ber in front. It is very convenient to have it 



38 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

fixed in this manner, as in shipping it from one 
point to another the tubes and other incidentals 
can be placed in the space so made and shipped 
with safety. There is no objection to the acid 
and gas chambers being made in the shape of 
cylinders, instead of square, if so desired, but if 
made circular they should be made to fit the 
frame tightly to prevent jarring and eventually 
breaking the seams. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 39 



CHAPTER V. 

MAKING THE GAS TO BURN THE GENERATOR. 

In towns supplied with illuminating gas it is 
a comparatively simple operation to burn the lead 
lining for the generator, but for the convenience 
of those who cannot obtain gas it is necessary 
to give some method by which the generator can 
be burned. The method described will answer 
for illuminating gas as well as for gasoline. 

To generate gas from gasoline is a simple 
operation. To do this, take a common i -gallon 
oil can, remove the top of can screw and punch a 
^-inch hole in the center of it. Then make a 
tube of tin that will pass through this hole, suffi- 
ciently long to extend half way to the bottom and 
project 2 inches outside of can screw, and solder 
this tube in place. This projecting tube is for 
the purpose of connecting to the air holder. Re- 
move the spout of the can and replace it with one 
to which the hose can be connected. Now fill the 
can two-thirds full of gasoline, but not full 
enough to cover the gas outlet, else it would be 
likely to force gasoline out instead of gas. 



4° 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



After this is done, screw the can screw in 
place, the long end of the tube extending into the 
gasoline, as shown in j, Fig. 9. A hose connec- 
tion is now to be made with an air holder. As it 




Fig. 9. — Gas Apparatus for Burning the Generator. 

is necessary to have an air holder both for this 
process and the hydrogen gas process, methods 
will be described for making air holders which 
can be used for either. 



Air Holders. 

Different lead burners have different views 
on this subject. Some prefer the bellows, with 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



41 



a contained air holder ; some the air holder built 
like a gasometer, while others use an air holder 
similar to the generator in construction. These 
all have their advantages. For my part, I own 
and use all three. 

The advantage of the bellows is that it can be 
easily transported and does the work perfectly, 
but it requires constant pumping, which soon 
tires the helper, and for that reason could not 
be used on jobs requiring more than four or five 
hours' labor. 

The gasometer style of air holder is the 
easiest to use, if one does not employ a helper 
and has a large amount of work to do. The 
pressure can be regulated to suit the work by 
placing one or more weights upon it until the de- 
sired pressure is obtained. It does not require 
pumping up more than three or four times a day, 
which is its principal virtue. It is a perfect shop 
apparatus. Its disadvantage is that it requires 
a large quantity of water to fill it, which is not 
always available, and w^hen full it is so heavy 
that it requires a truck to move it around. 

By far the best air holder is the one shown as 
part of the apparatus in Fig. 9, and illustrated 
separately in Fig. 10. This only requires a few 
pails of water to fill it, and the exact pressure of 



42 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

the gas can be had by building it the same hight 
as the hydrogen gas generator. It does not 
require constant pumping, and I recommend 
this air holder for general use, as possessing 
more advantages, with less trouble, than any 
other air holder in use. However, all three will 
be described, and the beginner can make the one 
most suited to the material available. 

Air Holder No. I. 

The beginner will notice in Fig. lo that this 
air holder is so constructed that it gets its air 
pressure direct from the head of water, and also 
that this pressure can be varied by making the 
connecting piece of pipe longer or shorter, as 
may be desired. Of course, the pressure will 
vary slightly as the water descends into the air 
chamber, but not enough to make it objection- 
able, as it will be the helper's duty to watch the 
water line and renew pumping as often as the 
water falls below a certain point. 

To make this holder, a tank, a, Fig. lo, 12 
inches high and 18 inches in diameter, should be 
constructed of galvanized sheet iron. On this 
tank double seam a flat bottom. The top must 
be raised slightly, as shown, to give it strength. 
This can be done with the raising hammer, or it 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



43 



can be done by making the circle for the top ^ 
inch larger than the bottom, then making a cut 
to the center. It can then be drawn together and 
riveted in any desired pitch. A hole must be 




Fig. 10. — Air Holder No. I. 



punched in the center of this top large enough to 
receive a i-inch galvanized pipe, b. Six inches 
apart and 2 inches from the edge punch two 
holes, c and d, large enough to receive pieces of 



44 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

^-inch galvanized pipe. This top should then 
be fitted and placed on the body of the tank. 

Take a piece of i-inch galvanized pipe, e, 
sufficiently long to touch the bottom and pro- 
jecting I inch out of the top of the tank, cut a 
thread on the projecting end and drill the other 
end full of ^-inch holes, /, to the hight of i inch, 
to allow the water to flow freely. This pipe rests 
on the bottom of the lower tank and carries the 
weight of the upper tank. Solder this pipe in 
place. Then take two ^-inch nipples, i inch 
long, and solder them into their places, and on 
these nipples screw two y^-moh hose end gas 
cocks, c and d. One of these cocks is for the pur- 
pose of connecting to the air pump, and the other 
to the mixing cock. As close as possible to the 
bottom of the tank solder in a ^-inch coupling, 
g. Into this coupling screw a plug. This is for 
the purpose of draining the tank when out of 
use. 

Now make another tank, h, 19 inches in diam- 
eter and II inches deep, the top to be left open 
and wired with a heavy wire. Double seam a 
flat bottom on this tank. Directly in the center 
of this bottom punch a hole large enough to re- 
ceive a I -inch coupling. Then cut a i-inch coup- 
ling in half and solder it into this hole, putting 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



45 



the thread side down and leaving it as near flush 
with the outside of the tank as possible, so that 
if it is desired to move the air holder to and from 
a job it can be taken apart and the lower tank 
nested in the upper tank, making a compact bun- 
dle and reducing the danger of damage by care- 
less handling. 

To connect these tanks, all that is required is 
a piece of i-inch iron pipe, h, 12 inches long, with 
a coupling on one end. To operate this air 
holder, close the two air cocks on the lower, or 
air, tank; then fill the upper tank nearly full of 
water, taking care not to put too much in it, or 
it will overflow the lower tank and get into the 
tubes, and if this happens the tubes will have to 
be removed and hung up to dry, or drops of 
water will be blown into the blow pipe and extin- 
guish the flame. It is then ready for use. The 
air in the air chamber is compressed by the 
Aveight of the water in the upper tank, and if the 
water line is at the same hight as the acid line in 
the hydrogen gas generator the pressure of air 
must be the same as the pressure of gas. As air 
is used the water descends through the pipe and 
will gradually fill the loM^er chamber. It can then 
be forced back into the water chamber by attach- 
ing the air pump to the cock h in Fig. 9, or d in 



46 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

Fig. 10, without disturbing the gas or in any way 
interfering with the operator. To connect with 
the cock h in Fig. 9 it is only necessary to dis- 
connect one Hne of hose and connect the pump; 
then close the other cock and work the pump un- 
til air bubbles up in the upper tank ; then shut the 
cock, remove the pump and connect the hose to 
the gasoline can, open the cocks and the appa- 
ratus is ready for use. 

Air Holder No. 2. 

To make the air holder shown in Fig. 1 1 , take 
a sheet of No. 26 gauge galvanized iron 30 inches 
wide. Make it into a cylinder 26 inches in diam- 
eter, double seam a flat bottom on it, and wire 
the top with 54~ii^ch iron rod, which will make it 
stiff enough to withstand the pressure of water. 
Close to the bottom and 3 inches apart punch 
two holes, a and h, large enough to receive ^- 
inch galvanized pipe couplings. Solder these 
couplings in place. 

On the inside of this tank and into these 
couplings screw two pieces of ^-inch pipe 4 
inches long w4th elbows pointing straight up. 
Into these elbows screw two pieces of ^-inch 
pipe long enough to come flush with the top of 
the tank F. On the outside of the tank and into 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



47 



the ^-inch couplings screw two ^-inch nip- 
ples 2 inches long, and on these nipples screw 
two ^-inch hose end gas cocks. 

Now, with the same sized sheet iron, make 




Fig. II. — Ah- Holder No. 2. 



another tank 2 inches smaller in diameter than 
the first tank. This should have a flat bottom, 
and be wired as previously described. Then take 
four strips of sheet iron 30 inches long and 2 
inches wide, and form each into V shape length- 



48 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

wise. Lay off the circumference of this tank in 
four equal spaces. One side of the V-shaped 
pieces should then be soldered on at each space. 
The other side should be left loose to allow for 
adjustment. These pieces form the guides to the 
upper tank and prevent it from tipping sideways 
and binding. Two of the guides are shown in 
the illustration, Fig. 11. 

The lower tank should now be filled about 
one-third full of water. The upper tank should 
then be inverted and placed in it. The air pump 
must then be connected to one of the ^-inch 
cocks with a short piece of hose, and the air 
should be pumped into it until the upper tank 
rises to its highest level. 

The pressure in this form of air holder must 
be regulated by weights, and to secure i pound 
of pressure it is necessary to place weights equal 
to I pound for every inch in area contained in 
the opening in the upper tank. Two drop han- 
dles, such as are used on heavy milk cans, should 
be riveted and soldered on the sides of the tank 
to facilitate moving it about. 

Air Holder No. 3. 

Fig. 12 is a cut of a bellows with a contained 
air holder. It is not practical to try to make 
this article, as it can be purchased from any 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



49 



plumbing supply house and is not expensive. It 
is used principally by dentists, but it is also used 
in laboratories to supply air to the compound 
blow pipe. It consists of a small bellows held 
from the floor on iron legs, with a spring inside 
the bellows to hold them open, and has a rubber 
bag fastened to the under side to hold a small 
supply of air. The rubber bag is incased in a 
net to prevent it from becoming in- 



strmg 




Fig. 12. — Air Holder No. 3, Combined with Bellows. 



fiated too much and bursting. This bag serves 
to equalize the pressure. The size known as 
No. 10 A will supply 75 cubic feet per hour at a 
pressure oi ly^ pounds to the square inch, which 
is sufficient for lead as heavy as 24 pounds. For 
the light weight leads the pressure can be re- 
duced by pumping lightly and not filling the bag 
more than half full. 



50 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

Any of the three described air blast arrange- 
ments will answer the purpose, so it is immaterial 
which is used, and it is left to the discretion of 
the beginner to obtain whichever is the most con- 
venient. 

The Blow Pipe. 

Next comes the blow pipe. The only prac- 
tical compound blow pipe on the market is shown 
in Fig. 13, and is known as Walmsley's. This is 
a modification of the Bunsen burner, and con- 



Fig. 13. — The Walmsley Compound Blow Pipe. 

sists of a bent blow pipe with the air tube in the 
center, as shown in Fig. 14. It is a perfect work- 
ing blow pipe in every respect, and I should ad- 
vise every one interested in the work to purchase 
one. For while seams cannot be burned with it 
in any other position than horizontal, it will be 
found useful in lengthening traps or lead bends, 
for which purpose it is well adapted and can be 
put into instant use, thereby saving its cost many 
times over in wiping solders. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 5 1 

Burning with Illuminating Gas. 

With illuminating gas it is only necessary to 
connect the gas jet to the compound blow pipe 
with the hose and regulate the supply of gas with 
the gas cock. The air inlet is then connected to 
the air holder, or air may be supplied with the 
mouth, but good results are not obtained with 
the mouth, as only a good blow pipe solderer can 
keep up the blast necessary. To burn the seams 



Fig. 14. — Sectional View of Walmsley's Blow Pipe. 

use the same flux and follow directions given 
for gasoline gas. 

Making the Gasoline Gas for Burning the Generator. 

With a piece of ^4 -inch hose connect the top 
of the can C, Fig. 9, with the air holder D, then 
connect the spout or gas outlet e of the can to 
the gas end / of the compound blow pipe. The 
air outlet g of the compound blow pipe should 
then be connected to the remaining cock h, in the 
air holder. If the bellows is used, it will be neces- 
sary to connect the air with 54-ii^ch tee, ni, in 



52 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



which three short nipples have previously been 
screwed. 

The apparatus is now ready for use. Gaso- 
line being really a liquid gas, it takes its first 
opportunity to assume its natural shape. The 
natural way to convert gasoline into gas is by 
simple evaporation. So taking advantage of this 
fact, the action will be thus : By forcing air into 
and through a body of gasoline sufficient of the 
gasoline is taken up to form a dense vapor, which 
will light and burn at the jet, similar to illumi- 
nating gas. With the admixture of air in the 
compound blow pipe, it gives a flame of very in- 
tense heat. But, in common with illuminating 
gas, it is so rich in carbon that it gives an oxidiz- 
ing flame, and makes it necessary to use a flux, 
which should be Yager's soldering salts mixed 
as per the directions on the bottle. If this is diffi- 
cult to procure, a good substitute can be made 
b}^ mixing equal parts of powdered borax and sal 
ammoniac in a little water. 

To operate this device the air should be 
turned on the gasoline and lighted at the jet. 
The air should then be admitted gradually until 
the flame is brought to the proper size and con- 
dition, indicated by its being blue and pointed. If 
too much gas is admitted the flame will be yel- 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 53 

low and will blacken the work by depositing a 
coat of soot on it. If too much air is admitted 
the flame will be ragged and noisy, and the tem- 
perature will be too low to heat the metal. The 
flame is at its best heat when it burns with a 
pale blue color which does not show any yellow 
streaks. 

Before attempting to burn the generator the 
beginner should practice on pieces of sheet lead. 
It is next to impossible to burn seams in any 
other position than horizontal with this flame, as 
is rapidly oxidizes the lead, and in spite of all 
precaution the lead will become unmanageable 
in upright seams, so that the beginner would 
waste time in practicing on seams in any other 
position than horizontal. If directions have been 
followed in cutting the lead for the generator the 
seams will occur only in that position. 

To burn the generator the seams should be 
shaved clean, both on the under and upper sides, 
for a distance of }i inch, making a seam j4 irich 
wide, taking care to have the lead seams lie close 
to each other, for, if they do not, this flame will 
cause the edges of the lead to spread away from 
each other and leave a hole that is difficult to 
patch. 

Now apply the flux with a small brush. When 



54 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

the flame is in working order bring it quickly 
to bear on the end of the seam nearest you to be 
burned. When it starts to fuse draw the flame 
as quickly away, always drawing it to one side,, 
and from the upper to the lower sheet. The 
melted drop will follow the flame and unite with 
the melted drop on the lower sheet. 

It is necessary to have the shave hook near 
at hand, so that, in case of oxidizing when fus- 
ing, the melted drop can be broken up and al- 
lowed to flow in place. 

With a little practice and patience the gener- 
ator can be burned all right in this manner. This 
gas is perfectly safe and can be handled with im- 
pimity. This method would, of course, be im- 
practicable to use on a job of any size, but I have 
used it several times where nothing else could 
be obtained, and have always had very good suc- 
cess with it. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 55 



CHAPTER Vr. 

CONNECTING THE APPARATUS. 

We nov/ assume that the generator is charged 
and the rest of the apparatus is finished and 
ready for use, so we will proceed to connect it 
up ready for a trial. 

About 30 feet of 54-inch heavy rubber tub- 
ing should be procured. This hose should be 
heavy enough to allow of its being pulled around 
without kinking and shutting off the supply of 
gas. A piece of this hose 5 feet long should be 
slipped on the gas cock M on the generator, 
shown in Fig. i, and then slipped over the gas 
inlet tube of the scrubbing cup n. One must be 
sure that this is connected to the gas inlet tube, 
which is the tube that dips under the water in 
the scrubbing cup. 

With another 5-foot piece of hose connect the 
gas outlet of scrubbing cup to the right hand 
cock on the mixing fork /. Always connect the 
gas on the same side so as to avoid confusion* 
of cocks. Then with a lo-foot piece of hose con- 
nect the air cock on the air holder p or bellows 



56 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

to the remaining cock on the mixing fork g. A.n 
8-foot piece should be connected from the gas out- 
let on mixing fork e to the blow pipe i. 

These tubes must fit tight to prevent any pos- 
sible leak of gas, and if they do not they should 
be tightened on with pieces of wire. The remain- 
ing piece of hose can be used to connect the air 
pump C to the air inlet cock j- on the air holder, 
but if the bellows are used this will not be needed. 

Now place in the scrubbing cup a half dozen 
pieces of blue Aatriol, or copperas, as it is com- 
monly called. Then pour in clear water until it 
flows out of the trap screw ^. This screw can 
be made tight by using for packing a piece of 
wicking which has been saturated with tallow. 
After preparing the apparatus as above, refer to 
the cut of the complete apparatus and compare 
the connections on the cut with those made from 
the above directions, to make positive that they 
are right. If they agree, the apparatus is now 
ready for use. 

Testing the Apparatus. 

It is necessary to test the generator for leaks, 
as a small blow hole may sometimes be left in 
some of the seams or the cocks or cleaning screws 
become defective. 

To do this, first close the gas cock on the top 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



57 



of the gas chamber and make up the cleaning and 
charging screws, which must be set on a bed of 
soft putty. Then fill the acid chamber full of 
hot water, first measuring the water so as to as- 
certain just how much solution is required in pro- 
portion to the amount of water, as it takes the 




PiS- 15- — Mixing Fork. 



same quantity at all times. Allow it to stand for 
a few moments, then mark the water line with a 
pencil or nail, when it should be left standing for 
an hour. The water should stay at the mark in- 
dicated for an indefinite time. If it sinks during 
this test it shows that there is a leak in the gen- 
erator and it must be located and repaired. 

To locate the leak the gas cock should be 



58 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

Opened and the water allowed to run into the gas 
chamber. If this does not show the leak, force 
the water back into the acid chamber, which is 
done by attaching the air pump to the gas cock. 
Then taking a piece of soap and making a stiff 
lather, daub it over the cocks and cleaning and 
charging screw. When the leak is found the 
escaping air will cause bubbles to be blown. If 
the leak does not become apparent after the 
above process, the side boards of the generator 
should be taken off and the operation repeated 
on the seams. 

Under no circumstances must the apparatus 
be left until there is absolutely no doubt as to its 
being perfectly tight, as a slight leak would be 
likely to cause a disastrous explosion and injure 
or probably blind the operator. Flying vitriol is 
not a very pleasant thing to get in one's eyes. 

The apparatus should be frequently tested in 
this manner : Before drawing off the water it is 
desirable to learn what amount of gas pressure 
there will be when the generator is charged, so 
that the pressure of air and gas can be equalized. 
The mathematical rule for this is to multiply the 
head in feet by 0.434, and the result will be the 
pressure in pounds; or an approximate way of 
determining the pressure is to allow }4 pound 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



59 



pressure for every foot of head. For example: 
The hight of Hqiiid in the generator measured 
from the bottom of the acid supply pipe to the 
top of the water or acid line, when at its highest 
level, would be 3 feet. Allowing ^ pound for 
every foot in hight would give a pressure of i^ 
pounds, which is slightly in excess of the mathe- 





Fig. 16. 



Fig. 17. 



Mixing Forks. 



matical rule, which is 3 X 0.434 = 1.302, or i 
pound 4 ounces, but to be accurate it is well to 
attach a mercury gauge to the gas cock. Note 
the hight of the column of mercury. Then at- 
tach the gauge to the blast apparatus, and if the 
floating air holder is used, sufficient weight must 
be put on the top of air holder to raise the col- 
umn of mercury to a point not quite as high as is 
indicated by the generator. These weights can 
then be weighed and a similar weight made of 
lead to correspond, which can be kept for per- 



6o THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

manent use. If the bellows are used, the size 
specified should be obtained, and the pressure 
will be all right for this size generator without 
further trouble. If the air holder indicated by 
Fig. 8 is used, all that is necessary is to make 
the hights of the water line in both generator and 
air holder equal, and the pressure must be the 
same. 

The reason that the air pressure should not 
be heavier than the gas pressure is that if the 
air were the stronger there would be danger of 
the air working back into the gas tube and caus- 
ing an explosion in the tubes; consequently it is 
well to note this point carefully. Many lead burn- 
ers will say that the pressure of air is of no con- 
sequence, and all that is required is a sufficient 
supply ; but my experience and experiments have 
convinced me that when the pressures of air and 
gas are nearly equal the best results are obtained. 

The Mixing Fork and Blow Pipe. 

The mixing fork and blow pipe can be made 
in any plumbing shop and should be made of the 
smallest size pipe available. 

To make the mixing fork, purchase two }i,- 
inch female hose end gas cocks and 2 feet of ^- 
inch iron pipe size brass tubing. Take a piece 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



6i 



of the tubing 12 inches long, cut a regular iron 
pipe thread on each end, then bend it over a man- 
drel stake or a piece of 4-inch soil pipe into a half 
circle, as shown in Fig. 15, so that the ends will 
come about 4 inches apart. In the center of this 
piece drill a 3^ -inch hole, a. Then cut from the 
remaining piece of tubing a piece 3 inches long. 
Solder, or, better yet, have this piece brazed on 




Fig. 18. — Blo-w Pipe and Tip. 



to the bent piece at a, taking care that no solder 
can run in and partially stop the hole a. Then 
screw the two ^-inch gas cocks on the ends b and 
c. This will complete the mixing fork; or this 
fork can be made by bending a piece of pipe at 
an angle, as shown in Fig. 16; then cut another 
piece equal in length to the bent piece from the 
angle e to the end. One end of this piece must 
be filed to fit the piece d. A hole can then be 
drilled at e. Threads must be cut on these ends, 
after which they can be brazed together. Or a 



62 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

good fork can be had by using a special casting. 
This casting is used for and is known as a beer 
switch, and can be purchased of any dealer in 
bar supplies, Fig. 17. The same pattern and size 
of cocks can be used for this fork as previously 
described. Neither of these mixing forks has 
any advantage over the other, but three styles 
are given, as possibly one may be easier to make 
than the other. Iron pipe may be used instead of 
brass if desired. 

To make the blow pipe, take the remaining 
piece of tubing and cut a thread on one end. As 
the other end slips into the hose, it does not need 
a thread. The thread end must then be bent at 
right angles to the tubing, as c, Fig. 16. This 
can be done by boring a hole in a block of hard 
wood just large enough for the tubing to enter, 
and i^ inches deep. Trim off the sharp edge 
of this hole so as not to kink the pipe in bending. 
The end of the tube can then be inserted in this 
hole and bent to the desired shape, as shown. 
This completes the blow pipes with the exception 
of the tips, of which you should have three sizes, 
drilled as follows : One for heavy lead, 3-32 ; one 
for medium weight, 2-32, and one for very light 
sheets, 1-32. These tips are made of small pieces 
of cast or turned brass, preferably with a milled 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 63 

shoulder, so as to facilitate removing with the 
fingers. Probably the easiest way to get these 
tips is to make a pattern out of wood and have 
several of them cast. They can then be drilled 
and tapped to any desired size, or they can be 
cut from a round bar of brass or copper, filed or 
turned to a point, then drilled and tapped. The 
dimensions and particulars can be had from B in 
Fig. 18 without further description being neces- 
sary. A common blow pipe, such as is used with 
the alcohol torch, can be used for practicing on 
light sheets. But the beginner is advised to pro- 
cure the blow pipe and a set of tips described in 
Fig. 18 before attempting to burn any heavy 
lead. 



64 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



CHAPTER VII. 

CHARGING THE GENERATOR. 

After making sure that the generator is per- 
fectly tight we will proceed to charge it. After 
removing the 4-inch charging screw take 15 
pounds of commercial spelter, which has been 
broken up with a hammer into pieces about 2 
inches square, and place this in the gas chamber, 
distributing it as evenly as possible over the per- 
forated bottom. This is done so that the zinc 
will expose all the surface possible to the action 
of the acid, and must be observed in order to ob- 
tain the best results. Do not put any pieces of 
spelter into the generator that are small enough 
to drop through the perforated bottom, for if 
they do they will be likely to generate gas, which 
will give overpressure and blow gas out through 
the acid chamber. This can do no harm unless 
close to a light, but it is very annoying to have 
acid blown all over the generator. The charg- 
ing and cleaning screws must be screwed up 
tight. After closing the gas cock on the gener- 
ator take the quantity of water (less one- 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. ' 65 

seventh) that was found to be necessary when 
testing the apparatus, and pour this into the acid 
chamber. 

Mark the water hne and watch it for a few 
moments to make sure that everything is tight. 
Then take of sulphuric acid a quantity equal to 
one-seventh of the water used, and pour that into 
the water in the acid chamber. It will diffuse 
itself through the water and thoroughly mix. 
Experience has taught me that acid mixed in any 
proportion stronger than seven parts of water to 
one part of acid does not act as quickly as when 
mixed in the proportion mentioned. The reason 
for this is that the strong acid simply coats the 
zinc with a deposit or scum of sulphate of zinc, 
which is soluble in water, but is not soluble in 
acid. Therefore, if the acid is diluted with water 
to the above mentioned proportion the water 
readily dissolves the sulphate and allows the acid 
to act freely on the zinc. 

This sulphate falls to the bottom of the gas 
chamber and if allowed to accumulate causes the 
clogging mentioned later. The beginner will ob- 
serve from the explanation that the generator 
cannot be crowded by making the solution strong. 
It sometimes occurs that the vitriol seems to be 
stronger than usual, and then again the reverse 



66 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

is also true. Good vitriol should be almost as 
thick as cutting" oil, and will work very quickly. 
Care must be taken in pouring it into the gener- 
ator to prevent spattering. This is best avoided 
by having a quart measure made of lead for this 
purpose. It should also be borne in mind that 
the acid should ahvays be added to the zvater, 
never the water to the acid, as this mixture al- 
ways generates heat, and the result would be 
similar to adding water to hot lead. 

Automatic Action of the Generator, 

The generator works best while hot. The 
gas cock on the generator should now be opened 
and the mixture allowed to flow into the gas 
chamber until it spurts out of the gas cock, which 
must then be closed. By this action all the air 
in the gas chamber is expelled, leaving it free to 
generate pure gas at once. This is a sure method 
of exliausting the air in the gas chamber. The 
acid then attacks the zinc, causing it to decom- 
pose the water and free the hydrogen contained 
in the acid. 

This gas, by reason of its lightness, will rise 
to the surface of the acid, and as pressure in- 
creases it will force the acid back up through the 
acid supply pipe into the acid chamber, until the 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. .67 

acid falls below the perforated bottom. When 
the acid and zinc cease to come in contact with 
each other the generation of gas stops until gas 
is used, which relieves the pressure; then more 
acid descends, and as it comes in contact with 
the zinc more gas is generated, replacing that 
which has been used. This action makes the 
generator automatic, unless clogging with sul- 
phate of zinc takes place. This may happen at 
any time if the apparatus is not cleaned after each 
day's use. 

Cleaning the Generator, 

To clean the generator in this case attach the 
air pump to the gas cock on the generator and 
force the acid up into the acid chamber by pump- 
ing air slowly into the gas chamber until the acid 
rises to the proper hight in the acid chamber, 
where it can be held by forcing a long wooden 
plug into the acid supply pipe. The pumping 
must cease when the acid rises to the proper level, 
or the excess pressure of air will work up through 
the supply pipe and cause a blow of acid. 

The charging screw can then be removed and 
the zinc taken out and washed in hot water. Re- 
move the clean out screw and run one or two 
pails of hot water through the gas chamber. This 
will remove the deposits of sulphate paste. The 



68 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

zinc can then be replaced, the screws tightened 
and the acid released again. Be sure and ex- 
haust the air in the gas chamber, as previously 
described, by letting the air spurt out of the gas 
cock before connecting it to the scrubbing cup. 
Care must be taken not to have any lights near 
the generator when blowing out this mixture of 
gas and air, as it is very explosive. 

The apparatus will-never clog if cleaned after 
each day's work, which should always be done. 
The tubes should be removed and hung up over 
night to dry. The acid, if not spent, can be 
dipped out of the acid chamber and placed in 
jugs. The generator can then be carried to a 
drain and filled with hot water, which should be 
allowed to flow out through the cleaning screw. 
This will clean the zinc and wash out all the 
sulphate deposit. The screws may then be tight- 
ened and the apparatus left ready for the next 
day's use. 

Fire Trap and Scrubbing Cop. 

One of the most essential parts of a lead burn- 
ing apparatus is a reliable fire trap and scrub- 
bing cup. This trap reduces to a minimum the 
danger from explosion caused by neglecting to 
free the gas from air. Its use as a scrubbing cup 
is also of infinite value. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 69 

The action of the vitriol on the zinc produces 
a violent ebullition, and a small quantity of the 
acid is carried in the form of spray from the gen- 
erator to the tubes, and, unless caught and re- 
moved, will frequently get into the blow pipe tip 
and extinguish the flame, making it necessary to 
remove the hose and hang it up to drain and dry, 
which oftentimes causes waste of time and annoy- 
ance. 

Almost all spelter or zinc contains more or 
less arsenic in a metallic state. It is also found 
in sulphuric acid. This arsenic is released from 
the acid or zinc as they decompose and is car- 
ried by the force of the volume of gas to the blow 
pipe tip, where, owing to it being necessary for 
the operator to get his eyes close to the flames in 
order to see the reducing flame, this poisonous 
gas will be breathed into the lungs and oftentimes 
cause a fatal illness. This fact has been disputed 
by many, who say that it is impossible for the 
unit of lightness — i. e., hydrogen gas — to pick 
up and carry a heavy metal such as arsenic. 
Arsenic does not form a chemical combination 
with hydrogen, having a very slight affinity for 
it, but is carried to the blow pipe solely by the 
force of the volume of gas. 

To prove the above assertion we will refer 



70 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

to Professor Marsh, who demonstrated the abil- 
ity of hydrogen to carry arsenic in the following 
manner: If a solution containing arsenic be 
added to a solution of sulphuric acid and zinc, 
the resulting hydrogen will, upon ignition, de- 
posit a ring of metallic arsenic upon any cold sur- 
face that the flame be directed upon. (Professor 
Marsh's experiment.) 

It will be seen from the above that it is im- 
perative that the operator use a scrubbing cup 
and see that it is properly filled with a solution 
of blue vitriol. The ordinary impurities of hy- 
drogen generated in this manner are sulphur and 
carbon, which should be removed if possible. 

The actual use of the scrubbing cup is to 
catch the above mentioned spray and precipitate 
to some extent all other impurities contained in 
the gas, and produce gas sufficiently pure for lead 
burning. 

Directions for Making the Cup. 

To make this cup take a piece of 4-inch lead 
pipe 7 inches long (an ordinary piece of 4-inch 
lead soil pipe will do) ; flange out one end and 
burn in a flat bottom. Three inches from the 
bottom, and in the side of this 4-inch pipe, burn 
in a trap screw, a, Fig. 19, a screw taken from 
an old lead trap being just the thing. This is 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



71 



to regulate the hight of the solution in the cup. 
Now make a top by taking a piece of lead and 
raising it about ^ inch ; punch two holes in this 
top, b and c, large enough to let a ^-inch lead 
pipe pass through; flange out the top of the cup 




Fig. ig. — Fire Trap and Scrubbing Cup. 



and fit and burn this top in place. Take two pieces 
of ^-inch lead pipe, one to be 3 inches long and 
the other to be 10 inches long, and with the 
dresser draw one end of each to nearly a point, 
so that the hose can be slipped on tight. The 
long piece c should now be slipped through one 
of the holes in the top of the cup, holding it ^ 



72 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

inch from the bottom d and burning it in. This 
is the gas inlet and should be marked as such. 
The short piece is then placed in the remaining 
hole and burnt in place. The action will be thus : 
The gas entering the gas inlet pipe is caused to 
pass through a solution of blue vitriol 25^ inches 
deep, when the acid is caught and the gas is 
scrubbed and rendered as nearly pure as pos- 
sible. It then enters the outlet pipe and is ready 
for use. If the directions have been followed the 
cup will resemble the illustration Fig. 17. No 
trouble will be experienced with this cup. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 73 



CHAPTER VIIL 

THE FLAME AND ITS MANAGEMENT, 

Before attempting to light the gas the oper- 
ator must be sure that all the air is exhausted 
from the tubes. Otherwise the flame will go back 
and explode in the tubes or fire trap. To be sure 
of this the beginner must test the gas. A handy 
test tube can be made by capping one end of a 
piece of ^-inch pipe, which should be about 6 
inches long. To test the gas, first open wide the 
gas cock M on the generator, Fig. i. Then 
open the gas cock / on the mixing fork and let 
the gas displace the air in the tubes, which it will 
do in about one minute. Then invert the test 
tube. Fig. 20, and hold it over the blow pipe tip 
for a moment until the gas has displaced the air 
in the tube. Then quickly place your thumb over 
the opening of the test tube, which will keep the 
gas from escaping. Close the gas cock / on the 
mixing fork, then take the test tube to one side 
away from the generator, still keeping it in- 
verted, and bring it close to a lighted match or 
candle. It will light with a pop, and if it is free 



74 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



from air it will burn quietly down in the tube 
until the gas is exhausted. Continue to test the 
gas in this manner until it burns as described, 




Fig. 20. — Method of Testing Gas. 

when it may be safely lit at the jet without fear 
of its burning back. This precaution is neces- 
sary only after opening the generator for some 
purpose. 

Regulating Volume and Pressure. 

This generator evolves gas under a greater 
pressure than can be used on most work, and for 
this reason the flame will at first be long, noisy 
and unsteady, as shown in A^ Fig. 21, but, as 
there are two cocks, the volume and pressure can 
be regulated to the requirements of the work at 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



75 



hand. Now, to note the pecuHarities of this 
flame, we will close the gas cock / on the mixing 
fork until the flame is about 3 inches long. It 
will be of a pale reddish color and will burn stead- 
ily. The inner flame is not as yet very well de- 




Fig. 21. — Flames Under Different Pressures. 



fined. Then open the air cock g slowly, and 
when sufficient air has been admitted the flame 
will be seen to shoot out suddenly and then 
shorten to about i^ or 2 inches in length. It 
will be smooth, compact, and will have the ap- 
pearance of darting rapidly. If the correct quan- 
tity of air has been admitted the inner flame, as 



76 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

shown in B, Fig. 21, will then be plainly seen, 
and its apex, which is the point of greatest heat, 
will be blue. This inner flame is known as the 
nonoxidizing flame, and is the flame with which 
the fusing is done. 

The outer flame will change to a bluish color. 
Its temperature is low, and its effect on the lead 
is to coat the metal with a heavy blue oxide, under 
which the lead runs but does not unite. To dem- 
onstrate this, bring the point of the inner or non- 
oxidizing flame to bear on a piece of sheet lead. 
It will fuse bright and clean and will have a cir- 
cle of gray oxide around it. Then quickly re- 
move the flame and the spot will remain bright. 
Now, again bring the flame to bear on the same 
piece of lead, keeping the point of the inner flame 
at least % inch away from the lead. It will melt 
and flow together, but will be covered with a 
coat of gray oxide and the union will not be 
perfect. Slowly withdraw the flame, and before 
the flame is entirely removed the spot will be 
heavily coated with a thick blue oxide, under 
which the lead will not unite. C, in Fig. 21, 
shows the appearance of the flame when too 
much air has been admitted and it is on the point 
of going out from lack of gas. 

The proper way to use the gas is to open wide 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 77 

the gas cock M on the generator, and do any 
regulating" of the flame with the gas cock / on 
the mixing fork. These cocks should have pieces 
of heavy wire brazed or soldered lengthwise of 
the handles, Fig. i6, h and i, so as to form lever 
handles. .This will allow the gas and air cocks 
to be closed or opened by gently tapping the lev- 
ers h and i, which is the only way that a slight 
variation can be had, for if you try to regulate 
them with the finger you will constantly open or 
close them too much, and the result is that in add- 
ing air too much is always admitted, which will 
blow out the flame, making it necessary to turn 
off the air and light the jet again, and many times 
this operation will have to be repeated before the 
flame is correctly adjusted. 

It must be remembered to always turn on and 
light the gas before admitting any air, and when 
through with the flame the air must be turned ofl^ 
first, then the gas. If this operation is reversed 
an explosive mixture of gas and air would form 
in the tube and would spoil the tube, if nothing 
worse. 

Study the Flame Well. 

The beginner should study the flame until 
perfectly familiar with the color and form of the 
proper flame. One of the greatest troubles that 



78 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

the beginner will have with the blow pipe is the 
inability to regulate the flame to the require- 
ments of the work. For instance: A flame that 
would work nicely on 12-pound sheets would 
burn holes in 4-pound sheets before you had time 
to touch the lead with the inner flame. For that 
reason three different sizes of tips should be 
used. On a 2-pound sheet the smallest, or 1-32, 
tip should be used, and the flame before reduc- 
ing should not be longer than ^ inch, and when 
reduced the inner flame can hardly be distin- 
guished, but you can easily tell when it touches 
the lead by the metal fusing bright. If it is de- 
sited to fuse 12-pound sheets the 2-32-inch tip 
should be substituted, and it would be found nec- 
essary to have the jet of gas about 3 inches long, 
which, when reduced, would be about 2 inches 
long and would show the inner flame very dis- 
tinctly. 

The only way to determine the size of the 
flame necessary is by experimenting with it. It 
will also come with experience. The flame should 
be reduced to a size that will not melt the lead 
as soon as it touches it. Rather, it should be in 
such condition that the lead would have to be 
heated first and let the fusing come gradually. 
In that way it can be determined just what sized 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 79 

drop is required, and also plenty of time is al- 
lowed to place it just where it is wanted — par- 
ticularly on upright seams and imperatively on 
inverted seams. 

It is not necessary to be so particular on hori- 
zontal seams, as on seams in that position you are 
assisted by gravity. The lead drop that is melted 
from the upper lap cannot do otherwise than 
unite with the under lap. It must be remem- 
bered that in starting a seam you have cold lead 
to fuse, and after the first drop is started the lead 
in its vicinity will be heated almost to the melting 
point, and you will probably be surprised to see 
the lead run at the approach of the flame for the 
next application. 

Do Not Hurry. 

The point to be taught here is that you must 
not attempt to hurry this work or holes will 
surely be burned in the sheets, which oftentimes 
niakes difficult work to patch. The old adage, 
" haste makes waste," can w^ell be applied to lead 
burning. Sufficient time must be allowed for one 
drop to set before attempting to place the next 
drop. Time spent on practicing at the bench is 
time well spent, as many little details that can- 
not be 'brought to the beginner's attention here 
will be learned in that way and stored in his mind 
for future application. 



8o THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE DIFFERENT KINDS OF SEAMS. 

There are two kinds of seams proper, viz. : 
The butt seam and the lap seam. The butt seam 
is used principally for joining horizontal waste 
pipes and in lengthening traps, or for any pur- 
pose where it is desired not to have the point of 
junction show. This form of seam can be burned 
clear through — that is, the lead can be heated 
until fusion takes place nearly through the entire 
sheet. It is generally necessary to add lead to 
the seam if it is desired to make the seam as 
strong as the sheet it joins, unless the article to 
be burned is of such a size as to be possible to 
allow of its being burned on both sides, which 
makes the strongest of seams. The lead for the 
butt seams is prepared by rasping the edges of 
the lead sheet to be joined straight and true. Fig. 
22, so that when the edges of the lead are brought 
together they will fit close its entire length. The 
edges are then shaved for a distance of % 
inch each side of the edge, making a seam 54 
inch wide. On stock heavier than 12-pound 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



8i 



sheets the edge should be shaved ojff, making a 
deep V-shaped groove, and the seams must be 
made by adding lead. This allows the fusion to 
take place nearly through the sheet. The butt 
seam is the simplest form to burn, no matter in 
what position it is placed. 

The lap seam is the seam commonly used, and 




Fig. 22. — Rasping the Edges of the Lead Sheet Straight and True. 



as between the butt seam and the lap seam the 
latter is generally to be preferred. As it is not 
necessary to cut and trim the edges true, it dis- 
penses with any additions of lead, except at rare 
intervals; it leaves the left hand free to handle 
the shave hook, and the lap can be dressed to fit 
any uneven spots. It also makes the next best 
seam to through fusing. By lap seaming a tank 
can be lined in about half the time required to 



82 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



butt seam the same article, which is an important 
item to the customer. 

The lead for this form of seam is prepared, 
as its name indicates, by lapping one sheet 
^ to % inch over the other sheet. The under 
edges are to be shaved clean, as also the upper 
edge. The lead required to make the seam is 




Fig. 23. — Burning a Lap Seam. 

melted from the upper lap and is fused on the 
lower sheet. There is no reason why the lead at 
the point of juncture cannot be made as thick as 
the original lead. This is the point aimed at in 
practicing, and the only accurate way to deter- 
mine the relative strength of the seams is to cut 
squarely across a finished seam, then bend the 
beam slightly. The thickness can then be noted. 
A cross section of a perfect lap seam is shown 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 83 

at a in Fig. 23. The beginner should practice the 
different seams until the thickness of the joint 
can be told by the looks of the lead. A few days' 
diligent practice at the bench will soon train the 
eye to note any imperfection that may arise. 

The different seams will be taken up serially. 
A description of how the seams are prepared and 
the several positions of the blow pipe, as well as 
the little difficulties that may arise, is the extent 
of the instruction that can be given. The rest 
must come with practice and the application of a 
little common sense. There is no royal road to 
this business; but practice, and practice hard, is 
the only way to satisfactorily master the blow 
pipe and flame, and in practicing remember that 
all this work has been done before, and can be 
easily done again, and by you. Do not get dis- 
couraged by failure to make a perfect seam at 
the first application, but stick to it for a short 
time and it will be found to be a most fascinating 
pastime, for which the persistent student will 
eventually be well repaid. 

Flat Butt Seam. 

For practicing I would recommend the be- 
ginner to use pieces of sheet lead about 12 inches 
long, as strips of that length are much easier to 



84 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

prepare. The edges are straightened with a fine 
rasp which is held lengthwise of and parallel to 
the edge to be trued, in the manner shown in Fig. 
22. The rasp must be used lightly, or it will be 
apt to tear the lead and so leave it in worse con- 
dition than before using it. The edge should then 
be gone over with the shave hook and cleaned. 
Then shave the top surface a distance of y^ inch 
each way from the edge, which will make a seam 
^ inch wide when finished. Then butt the edges 
together and secure the sheets firmly to a board 
with a few tacks. The extra lead that is neces- 
sary to add to make a butt joint full must be ob- 
tained from a strip of lead, which should be 
about ys, inch square and shaved clean. 

After regulating the flame to the proper size 
and shape the burning should be begun at the 
end of the seam nearest the operator. With the 
point of the inner flame melt off a drop from the 
lead strip and have it fall squarely on the seam 
just slightly in advance of the point of fusion. 
Follow it up with the flame, placing the point of 
the inner flame directly over the edges of the 
seam, which is almost under the lead drop. As 
soon as fusion commences on the lead seam the 
melted drop will flow to the bright spot and im- 
mediately unite with it. The flame must then 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



8S 



be quickly removed and the drop be allowed to 
set. 

In order to avoid any misunderstanding re- 
garding the time required for the lead drop to 
set I would say that the drop will cool imme- 
diately upon the flame being removed from con- 
tact with it. It is not necessary to wait for any 
specified time, but if the flame is allowed to play 




Fig. 24. — Burning a Flat Butt Scam. 



constantly on the sheet it is apt to get overheated, 
and when in that condition it takes very little 
heat to set the lead running like water. To avoid 
this the flame should be lifted clear of the seam 
for an instant after each drop has been fused 
into place. 

These remarks apply to all seams that are 
made by the blow pipe process and should be 



S6 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

noted, as this particular point will not be referred 
to again. Now melt off another drop and let it 
fall as before, only it should lap on the previous 
drop about one-half its diameter. Secure it to 
the seam as before. This operation should be re- 
peated until the seam is completed, and if the 
seam is correctly done a section will appear as a 
in Fig. 24. This form of flat seam should be 
practiced until perfectly familiar with the blow 
pipe flame and until the beginner can approach 
the lead with the flame without burning holes 
through it, which will probably be the first thing 
to happen. 

Upright Butt Seam, 

The Upright butt seam is seldom used on large 
work, as it is a difficult matter to make an upright 
butt seam that will stand the test, as, if a finished 
seam is cut into short pieces, an examination of 
the severed ends will show many weak places that 
were previously thought to be very strong. The 
reason of this is that the heat necessary to fuse 
through the lead will cause the lead to run from 
the seam and leave a hole. 

The sheets for practice are prepared as de- 
scribed for flat butt seams, and must be securely 
tacked to a board which can be supported in an 
upright position. The burning is begun at the 



TPIE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



87 



bottom of the seam. The flame must be short- 
ened considerably, as the fusing must take place 
somewhat slower than in flat seams, as in up- 
right or inverted seams the attraction of gravity 
remains to be overcome, and the operator must 




Fig. 25. — Burning an Upright Butt Seam. 



have plent}^ of time between the commencement 
of brightening and the actual fusing to drive the 
melting drop to the exact position desired. 

The blow pipe is held so that the flame strikes 
the seam squarely and at about a right angle with 
the sheet, as shown in Fig. 25. When fusion 
starts the flame should be drawn quickly to one 



88 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

side, and if the lead is at the proper temperature 
the melted drop will follow the point of flame, 
and as it comes in contact with the adjoining edge 
it will properly unite. It is not necessary to add 
lead, to these seams oftener than at intervals of 
5 or 6 inches, or as often as the lead shows signs 
of weakening, when it may be added by holding 
the lead strip against the lead sheet and slightly 
above the flame. The melted drop will unite with 
the sheet and can then be driven to an}^ desired 
position. This seam will show the characteristic 
beads, but they will lie nearly level with the lead 
sheets, and if a scratch cloth be rubbed over the 
seam all traces of the position of the seam will 
be removed. 

To make a really strong seam it must be gone 
over with the flame at least twice, as after fusion 
of the edges takes place the flame can be used 
quite strong without fear of the lead running 
from the seam. Do not leave this seam until 3^ou 
are satisfied that it is nearly perfect. It is good 
practice, and every hour spent only makes the 
mastery of the next feeam come so much more 
quickly. 

Horizontal Butt Seam» 

This form of seam cannot be used to any ad- 
vantage on general work, but, like seams in other 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 89 

positions, it cannot always be avoided. The prac- 
tice sheets are prepared and tacked securely to 
the board, as previously described, and are then 
placed in the position shown in Fig. 26. The 
position of the blow pipe is as shown at a. The 
flame should strike the sheet nearly square. The 
edge of the upper sheet should be heated first, and 



fb 




Fis;. 26. — Burniiis. a Horizontal Butt Scam. 



as it brightens the flame should be directed onto 
the edge of the lower sheet. If properly done, 
fusion will at once take place. 

The object sought is to get a light fusion be- 
tween the two sheets before attempting to burn 
the lead clear through the seam. If this is not 
done, the lead will run from the upper sheet and 
cause holes, or at least will seriously weaken 



go THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

the upper sheet, as shown in cross section at b. 
After fusion is once obtained it is a simple mat- 
ter to go over the seam a second time, which can 
then be fused clear through without much dan- 
ger of burning holes through the sheet. Lead 
can be added in the same manner as in upright 
seams if necessary. 

Inverted Butt Seam. 

This seam is used extensively in joining waste 
pipes which conduct the acid from tanks to the 
drain. These pipes are usually in a horizontal 
position and the seams must be burned in place. 
The most difficult part of the seam is in starting 
it. When fusion has once taken place the bal- 
ance of the seam is easy. The seam is prepared 
the same as described for other butt seams. Care 
must be taken to have the edges butt close. The 
board can then be supported in the required posi- 
tion by any convenient device. 

The blow pipe flame must be made as short 
as possible and still melt the lead. The point of 
the inner flame is then placed squarely on the 
seam. Both edges must be heated at once. If 
the edges begin to brighten and do not show an 
inclination to fuse, the flame should be drawn 
quickly to one side, and the melted drop will fol- 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 91 

low the point of flame and unite with the adjoin- 
ing edge. This seam, in common with the other 
butt seams, should be gone over the second time 
to assure a perfect seam. It is difficult work to 
add lead to the flat inverted seam. When neces- 
sary to do so, however, it can be added by burn- 
ing the end of the lead strip to the seam. The 
strip is then melted off, leaving a drop of lead 
affixed to the seam, which can then be drawn to 
the required spot with the flame. 

The characteristic inverted seam shows pits 
upon examination of the reverse side of the 
sheets. These are caused by overheating. The 
operator will often be surprised at the inverted 
butt seam showing a remarkable fullness. This 
is accounted for upon the examination above re- 
ferred to. The lead, upon the application of the 
heat, runs from the upper or back side of the 
sheet and forms a very full seam. For that rea- 
son the inverted butt seams always appear 
stronger than they really are. See inverted lap 
seam. Fig. 27. 

Lap Seams. 

The lap seams are the seams commonly used on 
all classes of work. When the beginner becomes 
proficient with the blow pipe no trouble will be 
experienced in making lap seams that will show 



92 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



when cut a joint equal in thickness to the sheets 
that are joined. The lead sheets for the flat lap 
seam are prepared by shaving clean the exposed 
edge; also, shave the sheets where they touch 
each other. The upper edges can then be shaved 
for a distance of % inch each side of the lap, 




Fig. 27. — Burning an Inverted Lap Seam. 



which will make the finished seam ^ inch wide, 
as shown at a in Fig. 23. The sheets should be 
lapped y2 to ^4 inch, according to the weight of 
the stock. It is very evident that light weights 
would not require as large a lap as would heav- 
ier sheets, as the object of lapping the sheets is 
to leave the sheets practically as one piece, and 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 93 

the lead, to accomplish this object, is to be melted 
from the upper sheet. 

From the foregoing it will be seen why a 12- 
pound sheet requires a ^-inch lap, while a 24- 
pound sheet would require a ^-inch lap. The 
flame, when regulated to the work, is brought to 
bear squarely on the edge of the upper sheet, 
slanting slightly in the direction of the lower 
sheet, as shown. When the edge has brightened 
almost to the fusing point the blow pipe should 
be drawn quickly to one side and from the upper 
sheet to the lower sheet. If the metal is suffi- 
ciently hot the melted drop will follow the point 
of the flame and instantly fuse with the lower 
sheet, and if properly done the seam will re- 
semble b in Fig. 23. This process is repeated, 
advancing about Ys to yl inch each time. Do 
not attempt to fuse a large surface at a time. 
Experts cannot do such a thing satisfactorily, so 
why should a beginner try to? Rather, try to 
fuse small surfaces quickly and strongly, as bet- 
ter work and more of it can be accomplished in 
that manner. 

Horizontal Lap Seams. 

This seam is prepared precisely as described 
for flat lap seams. The strips can be fastened to 
a board with a few tacks. The strips can then 



94 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



be supported in the position shown in Fig. 28. 
The burning is commenced, as before, at the side 
nearest the operator. The flame must be made 
as short as is consistent with the weight of the 
stock. It will be found to the beginner's advan- 
tage to have fusion take place slowly. The point 



^ K 
h 




Fig. 28. — Burning a Horizontal Lap Seam. 

of the inner flame is brought to bear on the outer 
edge of the lapped sheet and at an angle of 45 
degrees. Both sheets should begin to brighten 
at about the same time. The melted drop must 
be driven against the back sheet by the force of 
the jet of flame, and if the sheets are clean fusion 
will take place quickly. 

The drops or beads of lead will appear very 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. gg 

small on this form of seam, owing to that great 
obstacle, gravity, which causes the drop when 
melted to flow downward and so swell the seam. 
The drops, in common with other forms of lap 
seams, should be made short, letting each drop 
overlap the previous drop as much as possible. 
Great care must be taken not to weaken the seam, 
as shown at a. The beginner should strive to 
get the seams so that when cut into small sections 
each section will resemble the result shown at b. 

Upright Lap Seams. 

Prepare the sheets as for flat lap seams, fas- 
tening the sheets securely to a board, as pre- 
viously described. The burning should be begun 
at the lowest point of the seam. After regulat- 
ing the flame, the point of the inner fla'me is ap- 
plied to the edge of the outer sheet slightly above 
the point decided upon as the starting point, and 
at an angle of about 30 degrees, as shown at a 
in Fig. 29. As the drop begins to melt it will 
have a tendency to flow downward. By a quick 
turn of the wrist the flame must then be directed 
against the back sheet and slightly under the 
melting drop. 

The under sheet should brighten at once, and 
the force of the flame, being partially directed 



96 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



against the melted drop, tends to force it against 
the bright spot on the back sheet, with which it 
instantly unites. The flame must then be with- 
drawn for an instant, to give the fused drop time 
to set. The operation must be repeated until the 
seam is finished. Using ordinary language, it 




Fig. 29. — Burning an Upright Lap Scam. 

may be said that the drop is cut from the upper 
sheet, carried slightly downward and then stuck 
against the back sheet by the force of the flame. 

This seam is the one most used, and the be- 
ginner should practice it diligently. After mas- 
tering it in the position shown in the cut, the 
board should be fastened to the floor and the be- 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 97 

ginner should practice burning the upright seam 
from above the work. This position occurs many 
times in hning tanks, and the beginner who con- 
quers the upright seam in that position can con- 
sider himself sufficiently proficient to attend to 
any job of lead burning that may arise. The 
beads of lead will appear more compact and regu- 
lar than in the flat seam, and if properly done will 
upon cutting the sample show a very strong joint. 

Inverted Lap Seam. 

This seam should be attempted only after be- 
coming very proficient with the blow pipe and 
flame, after which it becomes as easy to burn as 
in any other position. In order to get the range 
of the seam the sheets should be arranged in the 
position shown in Fig. 27. The burning is be- 
gun on the upright seam, and continued up and 
over the curved portion and on to the inverted 
seam. The graduation from the upright seam to 
the inverted seam is simple and gradual, and is 
hardly noticeable. 

After accomplishing the inverted seam in this 
manner, strips of lead should be prepared and 
fastened to the board as described for upright 
seams. The board should be supported in an in- 
verted position at a convenient hight over the 



g8 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

Operator's head. The flame should be shortened 
as much as possible. The burning may be started 
at any convenient point and continue in each 
direction. The point of the inner flame is applied 
to the seam at a slight angle, as a. The object is 




Fig. 30. — Burning an Inverted Corner Seam. 

to obtain a fusion between the back sheet and the 
upper edge of the lap. When this is accom- 
plished fusion proceeds easily. 

The hardest part of this seam is in starting 
it, and when once started, with a little patience 
and care, the balance of the seam can be fused 
without any trouble. Fig. 30 shows an exercise 
which the beginner should practice after having 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



99 



conquered Fig. 27, as it teaches the making of 
an inverted corner seam. Of course, this posi- 
tion seldom occurs in small work, but if the burn- 
ing of it is once accomplished it will give the 
operator considerable confidence in his own abil- 
ity. 



l«f<* 



100 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



CHAPTER X. 

PIPE SEAMS. 
The Butt Seam on Round Pipe. 

Pipes that are placed in a horizontal position 
are usually butt seamed, as a stronger seam can 
be made in that manner. This form of seam is 
also used in lengthening traps, bends, etc. To 
prepare a round pipe for butt seaming, the ends 
of the pipe should first be made perfectly round 
by inserting a drift plug and dressing the lead up 
close to it. The ends of the pipe should be rasped 
true and then shaved clean. Also shave the pipe 
for a distance of ys inch each side of the edge. 
A piece of stiff writing paper should then be 
rolled up the size of the pipe and inserted in the 
ends. This paper will prevent any lead from 
running into the pipe and leaving rough edges, 
as these afterward form an obstruction. 

The burning should be commenced at the un- 
der side of the pipe. Fig. 31, and proceed both 
ways from the starting point and finish at the 
top. If the beginner has successfully overcome 
the difficulties of the seams preceding this he will 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



101 



find no trouble in making a strong and workman- 
like seam on this pipe. Pipes are seldom used 
heavier than the grade known as D for this class 
of work, and for that reason it is seldom neces- 
sary to add lead to these seams. But if a hole 
should be burned in the pipe on the under side, 
lead should be added to the top side of the pipe 
and then made to follow the flame to the desired 




P^S- 31- — Burning a Butt Seam on Round Pipe. 

Spot. This will be found a quicker and more cer- 
tain method than attempting to add lead directly 
to the hole. A properly burned pipe should show 
the full thickness of the pipe when cut with a saw. 

Thfoogh Seam on Round Pipe. 

Where heavy pipe that is to be used under 
pressure is to be joined it must be burned through 



102 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



to provide strength, and the ends prepared in the 
same way as just described, but the ends must 
also be trimmed off all the way around with a 
slight bevel reaching from the outside almost to 
the inside bore of the pipe. The bevel must stop 
so as to allow a narrow square butt end on each 
pipe. Then when a piece of paper has been 




Fig. 32. — Joint Prepared for Through Burning. 

placed on the inside to prevent lead running into 
the pipe, the two ends when butted will present 
a V-shaped groove, as shown in Fig. 32, reach- 
ing all around the pipe. The burning is com- 
menced at the bottom, as shown in Fig. 31, and 
the two ends securely imited. The groove is then 
filled by burning on additional lead from a thin 
cleaned strip until the groove is filled and the pipe 
made as heavy and strong at this point as any- 
where on its entire length. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 
The Lap Seam on Round Pipe. 



103 



This seam is used almost exclusively on pipe 
in a vertical position, and is similar to the hori- 
zontal lap seam. The pipe is prepared by spread- 
ing the lower piece of pipe with a drift plug one 





Fig. 33- — Preparing for a 
■Lap Seam. 



Fig. 34. — Burning a Lap 
Seam on Round Pipe. 



size larger than the size of the pipe used. The 
end of the pipe intended to enter this socket is 
rasped to a bevel edge, as shown at a, Fig. 33. 
This end is then shaved clean, as is also the in- 
side of the socket. The pipe is then placed into 
the socket, which is then dressed up tight against 
the inserted pipe, as shown in Fig. 34. The ex- 



I04 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



posed edge is then cleaned and burned, as de- 
scribed for horizontal lap seams. 

The Tee Joint on Round Pipe. 

With a pair of compasses set the diameter of 
the pipe that it is desired to insert, and strike a 
circle on the pipe which is to receive the tee. 




P^S- 35- — Making a Tee Joint on Round Pipe. 

With a tap borer, or any other device, cut out a 
circle of lead, leaving about y^ inch to turn up. 
Then draw this remaining lead up by means of a 
bending iron and a heavy piece of iron, such as 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



lOS 



a chisel, as shown at B in Fig. 35, until the hole 
is large enough to receive the piece intended for 
it, the end of which should be beveled with a fine 
rasp, as shown at a. The lead should then be 
dressed back against the pipe, after which re- 
move the piece and shave clean, and proceed to 
burn as described for the lap seam on round pipe, 
and as shown in Fig. 36. Care must be taken in 
dressing up the lead flange to dress it slowly so 
as to avoid weakening the lead. 

Lining Tanks. 

The lining of chemical tanks being the prin- 
cipal work of the chemical plumber, a description 
of how this work is done will probably be of 
some use to the beginner. In preparing lead 
sheets for a tank the sheets should be cut so as 
to give the most seams on the bottom, because 
of the greater ease in making them. In large 
tanks I find it convenient to put the bottom in 
first, cutting it to make an easy fit, and then the 
sides are put in. These are cut to allow %-inch 
lap on the bottom. 

The lead sheets are laid on the floor, or some 
other smooth place, which has previously been 
swept clean, and then dressed out smooth. This 
can best be done by using the wooden dresser to 



io6 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



take out the large wrinkles and then smoothing 
with a lead flap. This flap is simply a piece of 
sheet lead about 3 inches wide and 12 inches 
long, one end of which is drawn into a roll to fit 
the hand. Then mark the laps and bend them to 
the desired position. The under side of the lap 




Fig. 36. — Burning in the Tee Joint. 

should be shaved clean, as also the lead under the 
lap, to facilitate fusion. 

If the tank is over 18 inches high the lead 
must be fastened to the sides with bullseyes. 
These are made by countersinking places in the 
sides of the tank. The lead is then dressed into 
these holes and it is held in place with large 
headed brass screws, which are covered by burn- 
ing over the heads. Lead for the purpose is taken 
from lead strips. The building up process is re- 
sorted to in covering these screw heads. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 107 

The lead should be arranged so as to avoid 
corner seams as much as possible, as it is quite a 
difficult job to get the proper thickness of lead 
in such seams. No rule can be given for cutting 
lead to fit a tank, as tanks are of such a variety 
of sizes and shapes, and the lead is of so many 
widths, that the mechanic must study how to cut 
the stock without waste and have as few seams 
as possible. 



I08 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



CHAPTER XL 

ACID CHAMBER WORK. 

It is not my intention to give an elaborate 
description of how acids are made or to attempt 
to describe all of the different fittings employed 
in that work, because while all plants are similar 
in construction no two are alike. For that rea- 
son I will confine myself to the methods employed 
in handling lead in large quantities, as the lead 
used in this work ranges in w^eight from 1 8 to 24 
pounds to the foot and is therefore very heavy to 
handle. These chambers are known as condens- 
ing chambers, and their use is to catch and con- 
dense a mixture of sulphur and steam which is 
blown into them through a large lead pipe. For 
that reason they are usually built out of doors, 
and sometimes have a sort of temporary roof 
built over them. Consequently in repairing they 
are easily gotten at, which, by the way, is seldom 
necessary. 

To begin with, the sheet lead should be pur- 
chased of such a width as to make as few seams 
as possible. The bottom of the chamber for this 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



109 



lead to lie upon should be made of 2-inch cypress 
plank, the same to be tongued and grooved as 
for floors, and should be planed down, if neces- 
sary, so that it will present a perfectly smooth 
surface for the lead to rest upon, for if there are 
any uneven spots that is where the lead will 
eventually crack. The frame work for the sides 
should also be put in place before the lead work 



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Fig- 37- — Method of Framing Chamber. 

is started, or at least enough of it to prevent dirt 
and other stuff from bothering the burner. One 
end of the chamber, however, should be left open, 
so as to enable the workmen to bring in the lead 
or other material. The sides should not be closed 
up, but should be framed, as shown in Fig. 37, so 
as to allow the lead to be securely fastened to the 
frame work, which should be made of heavy 
stock, depending, of course, upon the depth and 



no THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

size of chamber, as they are in all sizes, from lo 
feet to 60 feet long and l-onger. 

After seeing that this part of the work is all 
right, begin to place the bottom in position. This 
lead should be cut large enough to allow of its 
being turned up about 2 inches all around for 
tight tanks. The sides are not burned to the bot- 
toms of some chambers, but the bottom lead is 
turned up different bights, depending upon how 
deep it is required to carry the acid in the cham- 



Fig. 38. — Chipping Knife. 

ber, which is from 4 to 10 inches or deeper. The 
studding should be notched out to allow the 
turned up lead to face with the face of the stud- 
ding, otherwise there would be a bend in the side 
lead where it overlaps the sides of the bottom. 
The flat seams in the bottom should be butted 
together, so as to give a perfectly smooth surface, 
which will allow all the acid to be dr^wn off. 

It is rather a difficult task for some men to 
cut heavy lead straight. This is easily accom- 
plished by first marking a chalk line on the lead 
where it is desired to cut it off; then, taking the 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. m 

hammer and chipping knife, as shown in Fig. 38, 
dip the blade of the knife in water, lay the blade 
square on the line and strike the back of the blade 
lightly with the hammer. Mark the sheet the 
whole length in this manner. Then go over it 
again and repeat the operation, making sure that 
the knife is held straight. The blade of the knife 
must be kept wet or it will stick in the lead and 
cause it to glance off sideways. After it is cut 



-—■■■• 



Pis- 39- — (^) Strap Split and Bent in Alternate Directions. 
(B) Bevel End of Strap. 

any uneven spots can be planed off smooth with 
a small smoothing plane, set so as to take off a 
very light chip. The lead should now be placed 
in position and dressed smoothly by using a piece 
of pine, or other soft board, as a dresser. This 
must be laid on any uneven spots and then 
pounded down smooth with a heavy wooden mal- 
let, after which the seams should be shaved and 
burned at once ; or if the seams are short and it is 
desired to put in enough work one day to keep 
the burner busy the next, strips of paper 6 inches 



112 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

wide should be pasted over the seams to keep the 
dust out. Only the edges of the paper should 
be pasted, so that when ready to burn all that will 
be necessary is to take hold of one end of the 
paper and strip it off, leaving the seam clean and 
free from dust and paste and ready to shave and 
burn. 

After the bottom is finished the sides must be 




Fig. 40. — Roll of Lead in Position. 



put in, in such a manner as to have as few seams 
in an upright position as possible, as it saves con- 
siderable time to burn them when horizontal. On 
small chambers or tanks not over 10 feet deep 
the carpenter should make a staging wide enough 
to receive two sheets of lead and as long as the 
tank is deep. The bottom of the chamber should 
then be covered with boards, so as to prevent 
damage to the lead. The staging is then brought 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



"3 



in and set up on horses, and the sheets of lead are 
cut off and laid on the staging. The seams are 
lapped, shaved and burned, after which the lead 
tacks or straps are cut and burned on, to support 
the lead when in position. 

There are different ways of putting on these 
straps. For side lead I use strips of the lead it- 
self about 3 inches wide and long enough to lap 




Fig. 41. — Clamp and Method of Applying. 

well onto the studding. My way is to split this 
strip about ^ inch deep and bend the ends in 
alternate directions. The edges are then cut off, 
as shown at A, Fig. 39, after which they are 
burned in place. These straps should be spaced 
not more than 15 inches apart, and should be 
placed in such a manner as to come on the upper 
side of the studding. 

Another method of putting on these tacks, 
and one which is most commonly practiced, is to 
trim the end of the strip of lead as shown at B, 



114 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

Fig. 39. The strip is laid flat on the lead sheet, 
with the bevel end down, and is then burned onto 
the sheet in that position, after which it is bent 
over the studding and nailed. The exponents of 
this method claim that a better job is done in that 
manner, as there is always a lifting pull on the 
strap. I claim for the first method that there is 
more strength in the lead seam, and that as the 
edge of the studding comes directly under the 
strap it acts as a sort of shelf for the strap and 
thereby becomes a strong brace. But it is prob- 
ably only a matter of habit, as they hold all right 
either way. 

Now, after having the seams burned and the 
straps in place, the lead must be put in position. 
This can be accomplished by any arrangement 
of block and tackles, but if the chamber be very 
large it will be found to be a saving of time and 
labor to rig up a derrick. This is not such an ex- 
pensive thing to do, as a carpenter is always on 
hand and most likely all the material needed is 
already on the ground. This derrick should be 
constructed with a swinging boom, so that it can 
be raised, lowered or swung into any desired 
position. 

Now to raise the side lead into position : The 
derrick is hooked onto the hook or rope that is 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



115 



on the upper end of the staging. It can then be 
easily raised in position. If the tank be very 
deep, or if it should be too narrow to follow this 
method, the sheet lead should be rolled up on a 
piece of 2, 3 or 4 inch iron pipe, depending upon 
the weight of the lead. This pipe should be long 




U*--^^ LP- m EM" 

Fig. /^.—Showing Staging in Position. 

enough to project at least 6 inches from both ends 
of the roll. Two timbers, long enough to cross 
the frame work, should be obtained. About 18 
inches from one end of each timber a notch 
should be cut to prevent the pipe from rolling. 
These timbers must now be placed across the 
frame work just over the place that is intended 
for the lead. The whole roll can now be raised 



Il6 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING, 

with the derrick and the ends of the pipe placed 
in the notches. The lead can then be pulled 
down, similar to pulling down a window shade, 
after which the tacks can be burned on in place. 
This is shown at a. Fig. 40. Or if there be room 
enough the piece of lead can be cut from the roll, 
dressed smooth and have the tacks burned on 
while on the floor. The upper end of the lead 
can then be rolled over and nailed to a piece of 
timber 2x6 inches or heavier, and the derrick 
hooked onto this and raised in position. This is 
the easiest method where there is room to do it. 
These are a few of the methods used, but there 
are numerous other ways. 

To place the top lead in position requires a 
staging, which can be built as follows: Enough 
hooks should be made to properly support the 
staging, shown at A, Fig. 41. Two timbers 
should be laid across the top of the chamber, far 
enough apart to allow two strips of lead to be 
placed in position at once. The hooks are now 
hooked over these timbers, while two pieces of 
3 X 3 or 4 X 4 are placed in the other end of the 
hook. Planks are now laid over these timbers 
and the screws set up until the tops of the planks 
come just level with the top of the lead — not 
higher, or else they will prevent the joist from 
being placed in position. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 117 

The lead can now be cut off on the ground 
and hoisted up to the top, where it becomes an 
easy matter to place it in position. The lead tacks 
can now also be cut and burned on. They should 
be cut sufficiently long to allow them to lap over 
the top of the joist, as shown at a, Fig. 42, where 
they should be nailed with large headed nails. It 
will be noticed that the tacks are doubled up on 
the top lead and that they are not set opposite 
each other. The joist can now be set and the 



s>. 



Fig. 43. — Lead Headed Nail. 



tacks nailed on, after which ropes can be tied onto 
the projecting ends of the 4x4 timbers and the 
whole staging be lowered to the floor at once. 
This operation can be repeated until the whole 
top is on. 

It will be necessary to leave small holes be- 
tween the lead seams at intervals for the hooks 
to pass through. However, these can be burned 
over at any time, and where the ends of the top 
should overlap the end of the chamber the lead 
can be left turned up until the staging is re- 
moved, after which it can be turned over and 



Il8 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

burned. The hooks are made of ^ round iron 
and have a long thread cut on one end, so as 
to allow for adjustment. The details are shown 
in Fig. 41. There are also numerous fittings 
used in connection with these condensing cham- 
bers, but they are all easily made and are too 
simple to take up space here in explanation. 
Should it be necessary to use nails for any pur- 
pose on the inside of the chamber, the heads 
should be dipped into a pot of melted lead that 
has not quite set until the adhering ball of lead 
is about ^ inch in diameter, as shown in Fig. 43. 
These nails can be driven in place and the lead 
burned to the sheet lead, which will prevent cor- 
rosion. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 119 



CHAPTER XII. 

SPECIAL HYDROGEN APPARATUS AND BURNER. 

The articles on the universal method of lead 
burning having been completed, I desire to call 
attention to a new method and a new generator 
recentl}^ patented and put on the market by the 
Kirkwood & Herr Hydrogen Machine Company, 
3129 South State street, Chicago, 111. It is called 
the Kirkwood generator and a general view of it 
is given in Fig. 44. This generator is a radical 
departure from the old style generator, as used 
for the purpose of lead burning, inasmuch as it 
dispenses with the air blast and consequently with 
the mixing fork and tubes. The air required to 
reduce the hydrogen gas to a working condition 
is obtained by absorbing the air at the mouth of 
the burner. 

The new generator differs also in the amount 
of pressure used on the gas. With the old style 
generator, previously described, a pressure of 
1^4 to 2 pounds is used, whereas the Kirkwood 
generator is used under a pressure varying from 
8 to 30 pounds. At the higher pressure the mak- 



I20 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

er claims the best results are obtained. The gen- 
erator is made in a size that enables the operator 
to take it to a job on a street car or train, and 
that while containing the full charge of acid and 
zinc, as it weighs when charged about 50 pounds. 
This is a very important advantage over the old 
style machine. 

Construction of the Generator. 

The generator is constructed, so to speak, 
just the reverse of the old style generator, inas- 
much as the lower chamber contains the charge 
of acid, while the zinc is placed in the upper 
chamber. The generator shown in the sectional 
view. Fig. 45, is cylindrical in shape, 9 inches 
in diameter and 30 inches high. A horizontal 
partition, to which is burned a pipe long enough 
to reach to a point about i inch above the bot- 
tom of the acid chamber, is burned into the cyl- 
inder at a point a little above the middle of the 
cylinder, making the acid chamber larger than 
the gas chamber. This arrangement allows the 
back pressure of gas to force the acid down into 
the acid chamber, compressing the air in the acid 
chamber without permitting any gas to find its 
way into the acid chamber and thus preventing a 
waste of gas. In this horizontal partition and 
over the pendent pipe a number of j^-inch holes 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



are drilled or punched. This enables the acid to 
pass freely into the gas chamber, and prevents 
any small particles of zinc from falling into the 



C 






Fig. 44. — General View. Fig. 45. — Sectional View. 

The Kirkwood Lead Burning Machine. 

acid chamber, which would generate gas in the 
chamber. Connected to the top of this acid cham- 
ber is a small pipe which runs up through the gas 
chamber and terminates above it, as shown. This 
pipe has an air inlet valve, or small hose end gas 



122 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

cock, connected into the side of the pipe, to which 
the hose from the force pump is attached when 
supplying air to the acid chamber to force from 
the acid chamber to the gas chamber in order to 
start the generation of gas. A safety or blow 
off valve is also attached to this pipe at the top, 
and is set to an ordinary working pressure of 15 
pounds, or to any pressure desired. If gas is be- 




Fig. 46. — The Kirkwood Lead Burner. 

ing generated faster than is required it gets up a 
pressure in excess of 15 pounds. Then the safety 
valve opens and allows the air in the acid cham- 
ber to escape until the gas goes down to the de- 
sired pressure again. This obviously allows a 
portion of the acid to return to the acid chamber, 
and later, as the acid becomes weaker, the air in 
this chamber will have to be renewed by the ad- 
mission of a little more air. 

A large charging screw is placed directly in 
the top of the gas chamber. Into this is screwed 
a tee and short nipple, or it may be a special fit- 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 123 

ting made for that purpose. On this tee or spe- 
cial fitting a pressure gauge is screwed, and a 
float valve is attached on the branch. Into the 
gas chamber or as close to the partition as pos- 
sible an angle valve is placed. 

To Operate. 

To charge the apparatus the safety valve is 
removed and the amount of the charge of acidu- 
lated water having been previously ascertained, 
the charge is poured into the acid chamber 
through the air pipe. The charge of spelter or 
zinc is placed in the gas chamber through the 
charging screw on top of the gas chamber. The 
pump is now attached to the air inlet cock with 
a short hose, and a few strokes of the pump will 
force the acid up into the gas chamber until the 
zinc is completely submerged. The generation 
of gas will begin at once. 

The cock on the burner is then closed until 
the necessary working pressure is obtained, when 
it is ready for use. The pressure of gas can be 
regulated by setting the safety valve to blow off 
at a greater or less pressure, as desired. The 
use of the float valve is to prevent acid from be- 
ing forced out of the gas chamber and into the 
tube. If this happens, the valve floats up and in- 



124 "^^^ ^^"^ °^ LEAD BURNING. 

stantly closes the outlet, in which condition the 
valve remains until sufficient gas is generated to 
force the acid back into the acid chamber. When 
■first charging the machine, acid should be forced 
up into the gas chamber until this valve closes, 
as that will force all of the air contained in the 
gas chamber out through the tube, leaving only 
pure gas in the generator. When the acid is 
spent it is easily removed from the generator by 
attaching the pump to the air inlet cock and forc- 
ing the acid up into the gas chamber. The angle 
valve is then opened, when the spent acid can be 
drawn off into a pail or other receptacle. This 
will not drain the acid chamber absolutely dry, 
but practically so. 

When the operator ceases work, as for dinner 
or for any purpose, all that is necessary is to open 
the air inlet cock and detach the hose from the 
gas outlet. The acid will return by gravity to 
the acid chamber when generation ceases. When 
the operator is ready to resume work a few 
strokes of the pump will start generation again. 

The Bofnef. 

The burner, shown in Fig. 46, which is the 
most important part of the apparatus, is also con- 
structed on a principle not heretofore used on a 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



I2S 



lead burning apparatus. It consists of a small 
tube, to one end of which is screwed a small cock, 
similar to a pet cock. To the other end, at a con- 
venient angle, is brazed the burner proper. This 
consists of a needle point valve. The needle point, 
being about ^ inch long, is arranged so that the 
point can pass through the gas outlet about 1-16 
inch. This seems to spread the flame in such a 
manner that it absorbs sufficient air to reduce 
the flame. It can be regulated by drawing the 
needle in or out, as the work requires. There is 
also a tube arranged to act as a by-pass or sub- 
flame. By opening the valve on this by-pass a 
pilot or subflame is maintained, which does away 
with the annoyance of having the flame pop out 
or become extinguished, as it is instantly ignited 
again by the subflame. In operating, the flame 
is held at such a distance from the work as ex- 
perience will teach to be proper, or until the lead 
starts to melt. It should fuse with that well- 
known and instantly recognized bright appear- 
ance which indicates the nonoxidizing flame. 

Any one who is used to handling the blow 
pipe can easily familiarize himself with this blow 
pipe. The maker claims that 2 quarts of vitriol 
will serve to operate the apparatus for a day of 
8 hours on lead as heavy as 12-pound. I have no 



126 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

doubt that it will do even more than the makers 
claim for it. The apparatus is made in three 
sizes, adapted for different classes of work. After 
the experience I have -lad with it, I feel sure that 
any beginner can use this apparatus safely if he 
uses ordinary judgment and care in handling a 
gas apparatus that needs common sense treat- 
ment. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 127 



CHAPTER XIII. 

SOFT SOLDERING WITH THE MOUTH BLOW PIPE. 

The common blow pipe is a simple little tool 
that is used in connection with an alcohol torch 
for soldering the finest and most delicate pieces 
of jewelry, and constitutes the sole method of sol- 
dering used by Britannia workers and jewelers, 
and the fact that such a varied assortment of 
articles are soldered by the blow pipe process 
leads one to surmise that it can be used to advan- 
tage on coarser work. Though it is a familiar 
tool to gas fitters, plumbers as a rule are igno- 
rant of its use, and it is hard work to find one 
who ever saw a blow pipe used on lead work. It 
is an easy matter to become proficient in its use, 
and the trick of keeping up a steady blast, and 
breathing regularly at the same time, is soon 
learned, and, when once acquired, stays with you 
always. This trick consists of making a bellows 
of your cheeks and using 3^our tongue as a valve 
to close the entrance to the throat, leaving the 
passage from the nostrils to the lungs clear for 
breathing purposes. The only things necessary 



128 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



to purchase for practice are a common bent blow 
pipe, which can be liad for about 15 cents, and a 
common candle. 

To operate : The candle should be lighted, and 
when it burns well and freely the tip of the blow 
pipe should be brought close to the flame and 
slightly above the wick, a. Fig. 45. Then blow^ 




Fig. 47. — Position of Candle and Blow Pipe. 



lightly through the blow pipe, and a pointed clear 
blue flame from 1 to 2 inches long, which will 
burn paper or char wood at a distance of 6 or 8 
inches from the flame, will be the result. The 
flame is hottest and best when it shows a perfect 
cone-shaped blaze, and is obtained by a very 
moderate blast. The variation of the blaze can 
be noted by commencing to blow very lightly and 
increasing the pressure gradually. The flame 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



129 



will then show all stages from a smoky flame to 
a long blaze that cannot be concentrated on any 
small surface. The little sharp tip is where the 
hydrogen burns, and is the hottest part of the 
flame, being the part that is used for soldering. 

Now, having noted these peculiarities, and 
knowing the perfect flame by sight, we will pro- 
ceed to acquire the steady blast. The blow pipe 
should be held between the lips, which will form 
a tight packing around it, and must not come in 
contact with the teeth. The cheeks are then in- 
flated, which will have a tendency to throw the 
tongue back to the throat and prevent the air in 
the mouth from blowing out through the nose. 
Now, by contracting the cheeks, and throwing 
the tongue slowly forward, the air will be forced 
through the blow pipe. This action is assisted 
when exhaling air by the pressure of the lungs, 
but when inhaling air the muscular contraction 
of the cheeks is depended upon entirely for the 
blast. 

The ability to keep up a steady blast is merely 
a trick, or knack, and is learned with a few hours' 
practice; when learned, the length of time that 
the blast can be kept up depends solely upon the 
strength of the muscles of the cheeks of the oper- 
ator. If these did not tire, the blast could be kept 



I30 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

lip for an indefinite time. Having learned to 
l^eep up the steady blast and get a perfect flame, 
the beginner will want to practice soldering. The 
blow pipe method of soldering has for its range 
of work everything that can be soldered, from 
Britannia metal to platinmii, but the only metals 
that are used by the plumbers are tin and lead 
and their several compositions, so we will confine 
ourselves to the study of those metals. 

Kinds of Solder Used. 

In soldering any metal the solder should be 
so proportioned that it will melt many degrees 
lower in temperature than the metal to be sol- 
dered. Otherwise it would be quite probable that 
holes would be burned in the work before the 
solder would melt. There are exceptions to this 
rule, however ; for example, lead burning, where 
one piece of lead is fused to another. As also 
with Britannia metal, it can be, and is, soldered 
with its own material, but it would be likely to 
have holes burned in it occasionally, and to avoid 
this a solder mixed for that purpose should be 
prepared. Two receipts are given here for quick 
melting solders that are suitable for this work. 
The first is preferred, but the second will answer 
the purpose. 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 131 

Solder No.' i : Procure 4 ounces of pure lead, 
4 ounces of pure tin, and 2 ounces of bismuth. 
The lead should be melted first and thoroughly 
stirred and cleaned. It should then be allowed to 
cool to the melting temperature of the tin, which 
should then be added. Lastly add the bismuth. 
The whole should then be stirred and poured into 
a suitable mold into very thin strips, about the 
size of a No. 8 wire, making strips of solder that 
can be rolled up and carried in the pocket. 

Solder No. 2 : This solder is composed of two 
parts of tin and one part of lead. These should 
be mixed as described above. To have success 
in making solders several points must be ob- 
served. The metal melting at the highest tem- 
perature should be melted first, which must then 
be allowed to drop to the melting temperature of 
the next metal to be added, and when ready to 
pour into molds the mixture must be stirred, as 
the specific gravity of the several metals differs 
considerably, and unless constant stirring is re- 
sorted to the mixture will partially separate upon 
cooling, and the result is an irregular solder that 
will not do the work. 

Practicing the Blowing. 

Now, for practice, take two pieces of %-inch 
lead tubing and prepare them as for a cup joint, 



132 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

by spreading one end with the bending iron and 
rasping the other end to fit the ctip, as shown in 
Gj Fig. 33. Support them as you best can in an 
upright position. Flux the joint with rosin. 
Then take the solder in the left hand, set the 
lighted candle at the right hight and distance 
from the joint, as shown at B, Fig. 47, which 
leaves the right hand free to manage the blow 
pipe. Then heat the joint with the flame, and, 
as it gets hot, touch the joint with the solder^ 
and when it reaches the melting temperature of 
the solder a drop of it will detach itself and flow 
clear around the joint, making a smooth, clean 
joint that is stronger than the pipe itself. 

Joints made in this manner present a hand- 
some and workmanlike appearance to the me- 
chanical eye. Practice diligently on the lead 
pipe until you have become so proficient that you 
can flow the solder all through the joint without 
withdrawing the flame. Then procure some ^- 
inch block tin pipe, and, when that can be sol- 
dered perfectly, the beginner can consider him- 
self sufiiciently proficient to practice on flat seams 
on Britannia metal. 

Soldering Britannia MetaL 

For working Britannia metal the candle can- 
not be used, as the dripping grease will cover the 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



133 



work and seriously interfere with the flowing 
solder. The beginner must provide himself with 
an alcohol or kerosene torch. A good form of 
torch, manufactured and sold for electricians' 
use, is shown in Fig. 48. The alcohol gives a 
clean flame, but by comparison is somewhat ex- 




Fig. 48. — Alcohol or Kero- 
sene Torch. 



Fig. 49. — A Specially Con- 
structed Torch. 



pensive. The kerosene gives a flame that can be 
concentrated on a small surface with fully as 
much heat, and if care is taken to allow only the 
blue flame to touch the work, it is fully as clean 
and cheaper. 

The burning kerosene torch gives of¥ a dirty 
smell and smoke, which makes it disagreeable to 



134 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

handle, but this is a case of take your choice, and 
it is left to the beginner to use either, as they will 
both do the work satisfactorily. It is also neces- 
sary, in doing this work, to have the blow pipe 
attached to the torch and connected to the mouth 
with a piece of ver}^ small rubber tube. This will 
leave one hand free to apply the flux and hold the 
solder. The flame can also be quickly placed in 
any position or directed to any portion of the 
work without allowing the work to cool. The 
alcohol torch for this work should be so con- 
structed that it can be held in a horizontal or in 
verted position without spilling the contents of 
the torch. 

The handiest, as also the cheapest, torch to 
make is the one shown in Fig. 49. It consists of 
a can 3 inches high made in the shape of a frus- 
tum of a scalene cone. The tube B should be 54 
inch in diameter, and must run parallel with the 
flaring side and extend half way to the bottom 
of the can, as e. Then, when the torch is tipped 
to solder horizontal work, the alcohol will flow 
into the space a, leaving the alcohol to supply the 
wick to be drawn up by capillary attraction. This 
tube is made of ^-inch brass tubing, bent to 
form an angle with the can, as shown. 

A screw and cap with a seat, such as is used 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



135 



on brass lamps, is obtained, and a hole punched 
in the cap c just large enough to receive the tube 
B. The screw is soldered into the opening of the 
can at D. The wick, which is formed of many- 
strands of candle wicking rolled tightly together, 
is pulled through the tube by means of a wire 




Fig. 50. — Using the Torch on a Flat Seam. 



hook, and left sufficiently long to lie in the space 
Gj so that it will always lie in the alcohol. This 
tube is placed through the hole at D, and allowed 
to project about ^ inch outside oithe can. Wick- 
ing is then wound around the tube and forced 
into the socket formed in the screw D. The cap 
is then slipped over the tube at c, and screwed 
down tight on the wicking, which will make a 



1:36 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

tight joint at D, and will hold the tube firmly in 
place. 

When necessary to fill the torch the tube can 
easily be removed and the torch filled. A sepa- 
rate filling screw can be used if desired. Even 
with this form of torch an excess of alcohol will 
occasionally get into the wick when used in a 
horizontal position and increase the size of the 
blaze. But when this happens the torch can be 
brought to an upright position for a moment, 
which will drain the wick and bring the blaze to 
its proper size. 

The blow pipe for this torch is made from a 
piece of very small copper or brass tubing. The 
end intended for the tip should be bent to the 
angle required, as shown at /, Fig. 49. It should 
be fastened to the torch by means of a clamp, g, 
soldered to the flaring side of the torch. This 
clamp should be so arranged that the blow pipe 
can be adjusted to the requirements of the blaze. 
This clamp consists of a short piece of brass. A 
hole is drilled in one end to allow the blow pipe 
to pass through, while the other end is filed to fit 
the bevel of the can to which it is soldered. The 
blow pipe can be held in position with a wedge, 
or a hole can be drilled and tapped and a small 
screw inserted which will hold the blow pipe 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



137 



firmly in place. The tip of the blow pipe should 
not be larger than 1-32 inch. The rubber tube 
can then be attached to the projecting end of the 
blow pipe at h, which is then ready for use. 

Owing to the Britannia metal melting at such 
a low temperature, it would be well for the be- 
ginner to practice on pieces of 2-pound sheet lead. 



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Fig. 51. — Cutting Metal for a Butler's Pantry Sink. 

Seams on this class of work are made by butting 
the edges of the metal, as these seams are not 
supposed to show. The seams are prepared b}^ 
truing the edges and then beveling the edges with 
the shave hook so that when brought together a 
V-shaped groove is formed. This is then fluxed 
with a small amount of powdered rosin. A drop 
of the quick melting solder is then melted from 
the strip and allowed to drop on the seam. The 



138 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

flame is then applied to the sheets, and as the 
solder flows the flame must be kept slightly in 
advance of it, Fig. 50. Care must be taken to 
heat the sheets only enough to cause the solder 
to flow. Otherwise the seam will not appear full. 
The beginner should experience no trouble in 
soldering these lead seams, and when perfect con- 
trol of the torch and flame is had, pieces of Bri- 
tannia metal should be substituted for the lead. 
These seams are prepared and fluxed just as for 
lead. 

Britannia metal is fast becoming the favorite 
lining for splash and drip boards on butler's pan- 
try sinks, as also for lining the work benches in 
saloons. It is soft enough to allow the most deli- 
cate china to be laid on it without danger of chip- 
ping, and is also very easy to keep clean. It takes 
a high polish and always looks well. The method 
of cutting the metal for a butler's pantry sink is 
shown in Fig. 51, the dotted lines showing the 
actual dimensions of the article to be covered, 
while the full lines show the laps required to 
cover the edges of the board. This metal is 
harder than lead, and will not dress smooth with 
the dresser. Any uneven spots must be pressed 
down with a hot flatiron. The method of turn- 
ing the edges is shown at a. The bending iron is 
heated and rubbed over the edge, gradually turn- 



THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 



139 



ing the edges until they are at their proper posi- 
tion. The iron must be constantly heated to in- 
sure the best results, and if properly done no 




cq 



CQ 



1 






140 THE ART OF LEAD BURNING. 

wrinkles will appear. A lined work bench is 
also shown in Fig, 52, which shows the method 
of putting in the bar washer. The sheet metal 
must be cut and fitted to its place and all the 
seams possible should be soldered before placing 
the metal in position. The edges should be tacked 
on the under side of the work, when practicable, 
with copper tacks. 

Sooner or later the blow pipe solderer will be 
called upon to make repairs on Britannia metal, 
and will be surprised to find that it will be impos- 
sible to solder the metal, owing to the excess of 
moisture under it. The best way to overcome 
this, which is practically the only trouble that 
occurs, is to cut out a small square patch. The 
edge can be cleaned and a patch of new metal 
carefully fitted into the hole. When ready to be- 
gin soldering, a piece of blotting paper should be 
inserted between the patch and board. This 
paper will absorb all the moisture and allow the 
seam to be neatly soldered. The man who makes 
himself familiar with the blow pipe and torch 
soon finds himself in a different class from the 
ordinary everyday mechanic, and if mechanical 
ability be accompanied with sobriety and sta- 
bility, the possessor will always command a good 
steady income. 

THE END. 



IND EX. 

Page. 

Acid Chamber, Framing 109 

Acid Chamber Work 108 

Acid, How Applied 66 

Acids 20 

Action of Generator 66 

Addition of Acid 66 

Air and Gas, Regulating Volume and Pressure 74 

Air Holder 40 

Air Pressure 58 

Alcohol Torch and Blow Pipe I33 

Apparatus for Lead Burning 15 

Arsenic, Poisonous Flame 69 

Arsenic Released from Acid on Zinc 69 

Bellows Air Holder 49 

Blow Pipe 50, 62 

Blow Pipe, Kirkwood 122 

Blow Pipe, Mouth 127 

Blow Pipe Practice with Candle. 128 

Blow Pipe, Walmsley Compound 50 

Blue Vitriol or Copperas 56 

Bottom for Generator 35 

Britannia Metal for Repairing 140 

Britannia Metal Soft Soldering 132 

Britannia Metal Work 14, 31, 32 

Britannia Metal Work with Torch and Blow Pipe 132 

Burner, Kirkwood Lead 119 

Burner Tips 62 

Burns and Their Treatment 17 

Candle Blow Pipe Practice 128 

Care of Apparatus -. 68 

Cautions 16 

Charging and Cleaning Screws 26 

Charging Generator 64 

Chemical Tanks, How Lined 105 



142 INDEX. 

Page. 

Chipping Knife for Lead no 

Cleaning Generator (i^ 

Colors of Flame yd 

Connecting Apparatus 55 

Cup, Scrubbing 56, 68 

Cup, Scrubbing, How Made 70 

Cutting Heavy Lead Straight no 

Explosions, What to Do When They Occur 17 

Fire Trap 56, 68 

Flame Management ti 

Flame Under Different Pressures 74 

Flat Butt Seam 83 

Framing Acid Chamber 109 

Gas from Gasoline, How Generated 39, 51 

Gas Pressure 58 

Gasometer Air Holder 46 

Generator, Charging 64 

Generator, Cleaning dj 

Generator Construction 26 

Generator Frame 30 

Generator Materials 30 

Generator Pipe, How Fitted t^^j 

Generator Seams, How Burned 2)^ 

Horizontal Butt Seam 88 

Horizontal Lap Seam 93 

Hydrogen and Air, Effect of Mixing 24 

Hydrogen Apparatus, Special 119 

Hydrogen from Water, How Made 25 

Hydrogen Gas and Its Properties 18 

Hydrogen Gas, How Made 20 

Hydrogen Proved Lighter Than Air 23 

Illuminating Gas Burning 51 

Inverted Butt Seam 90 

Inverted Corner Seam 98 

Inverted Lap Seam 92 

Joint for Through Burning 102 

Kirkwood Blow Pipe 122 



INDEX, 143 

Page. 

Kirkwood Lead Burner 119 

Knife for Cutting Lead no 

Lap Seam 82 

Lead Burning Explained 10 

Lead Headed Nail 117 

Lead Sheets for Tank 105 

Lining Chemical Tanks 105 

Mixing Fork 55, 57, 59 

Mouth Blow Pipe 127 

Nail, Lead Headed 117 

Pipe Seams 100 

Pressure for Working Gas and Air 58 

Repairing with Britannia Metal 140 

Round Pipe Butt Seam 100 

Round Pipe Lap Seam 103 

Round Pipe, Tee Joint 104 

Scrubbing Cup 56, 68 

Scrubbing Cup, How Made 70 

Seam, Butt, on Round Pipe 100 

Seam, Flat Butt 83 

Seam, Horizontal Butt 88 

Seam, Horizontal Lap 93 

Seam, Inverted Butt 90 

Seam, Inverted Corner 98 

Seam, Inverted Lap 92 

Seam, Lap 82 

Seam, Lap, on Round Pipe 103 

Seam, Through, on Round Pipe loi 

Seam, Upright Lap 95 

Seam, Upright Butt 86 

Seams, Different Kinds of 80 

Seams, How Prepared 80 

Seams, Pipe 100 

Sink, Bar and Washer 138 

Sink, Butlers' Pantry , 137 

Soft Solder 13, 130 

Soft Solder Formulas 131 



144 INDEX. 

Page. 

Solder, Soft 13, 130 

Special Hydrogen Apparatus iig 

Staging for Acid Tank 115 

Straps for Tank Lining iii 

Tanks, How Made 12 

Tee Joint on Round Pipe 104 

Test for Hydrogen 21 

Testing Apparatus 56 

Through Burning, Joint 102 

Through Seam on Round Pipe loi 

Tips, Burner 62 

Tips, Sizes of 78 

Torch, Alcohol and Blow Pipe 133 

Trap, Fire 56, 68 

Upright Butt Seam 86 

Upright Lap Seam 95 

Vitriol 56 

Vitriol Action on Zinc 69 

Walmsley Compound Blow Pipe 50 

Water Pressure Air Holder 42 



16 1905 



